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Thread: Help! In ball joint hell

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    31

    Default Help! In ball joint hell

    Doing front shocks, lower and upper control arms. Struts are off the car and I've been smacking the #$@( out of the lower control arm ball joint with a BFH and a pickle fork and I can't get it off. The 19mm nut came off easy. Please don't tell me the BJ bolt is threaded into the steering plate because that's what it feels like it's so damn tight. Any help please!!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    184

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    Soak it with some PB Blaster --sometimes they really get stuck in there.
    1992 525i Touring M50 5spd Manual 230k+ miles - SOLD:-(

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    475

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 530iBall
    Doing front shocks, lower and upper control arms. Struts are off the car and I've been smacking the #$@( out of the lower control arm ball joint with a BFH and a pickle fork and I can't get it off. The 19mm nut came off easy. Please don't tell me the BJ bolt is threaded into the steering plate because that's what it feels like it's so damn tight. Any help please!!!!
    I take it you soaked the hell out the stuck part with WD-40 or the like?

    You say you have whacked the fork with the BFH, but have you shocked the side of the stuck part of the ball joint (basically you want to 'ring' the steering knuckle's bell) and the bottom of the ball joint? You may need to use a large punch to properly transfer the energy of the BFH to the steering knuckle where the conical part of the ball joint is stuck.

    If beating it don't fix it, heat it then beat it. You may have to resort to heating the metal around the conical portion of the ball joint in an effort to get the steering knuckle to open up and break the 'sticktion' you have going on. You do want to keep the ball joint as cold as possible to keep the conical portion as small as you can.

    I have seen a fork seperate the ball joint, leaving the 'ball' and conical portion in the steering knuckle with no easy way to get it out. So it might be time to move the 'shocking' somewhere else.

    Brian

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    West of Cinci, OH
    Posts
    98

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    Take the control arms loose from the cross members and take the steering plate off of the bottom of the spindle. Place the steering plate across the open jaws of a vise and smack the ball joint stud.

    The way the steering plate is designed, there's too much metal between the edge of the plate and the ball joint stud to collapse the taper with a hammer to pop it loose. On those I resort to taking the plate and arms off of the car and beating it on the bench.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

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    Amen!
    Quote Originally Posted by icesoft
    Take the control arms loose from the cross members and take the steering plate off of the bottom of the spindle. Place the steering plate across the open jaws of a vise and smack the ball joint stud.

    The way the steering plate is designed, there's too much metal between the edge of the plate and the ball joint stud to collapse the taper with a hammer to pop it loose. On those I resort to taking the plate and arms off of the car and beating it on the bench.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    618

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    I had the same problem, in the end I had to conceed and put it back together and get a garage to do it. Here's a link to my thread:

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...all+joint+hell

    I tried a pickle form and it didn't work either, then I tried a ball joint separator and that kept slipping. If you can remove the upper arm bolt from the crossmember do as everyone says and remove the steering plate and attack it off the car. I also tried a ball joint separator:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LASER-Ball-Joi...QQcmdZViewItem

    But that kept slipping. I did the tie rods the other day and had what I think is a moment of clarity. If you leave the nut screwed into the top of the bolt by a few threads and feed this separator into it then there is no way it can slip off! I did this successfully with the tie rods yesterday. I've heard though that the weapon of choice for these is a scissor type ball joint separator:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ball-Joint-Sep...QQcmdZViewItem

    I haven't tried one but I have one on order (bit lat I know!) Its a pain but dooable, be careful as they come out quite violently, certainly surprised me as I have never done one before. Good luck, hope you have better luck than I did! If you don't have the experience or the balls to just hammer it (like me) then I think you will need one of these tools or have to remove the steering plate.
    UK 1997 e34 540iA Touring, 1989 535i Sport - now sold, 1998 Mercedes CLK 200 Coupe


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

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    Follow Leicesterboy's advice on the scissor type balljoint seperator and you can't go wrong. Look carefully at how it works, and you will realise that it doesn't necessarily need to go completely underneath the balljoint to work - the important part is getting the point on the end of the bolt where the nut goes. (You'll know what i mean when you try and use it).

    Don't waste your time taking the plate off, i've done the upper and lower control arms and tie rod assemblies without removing it. (Obviously you'll need to drop it down to get the lower control arm balljoint loose... but don't bother removing it totally). If you need an in depth procedure holla and i'll post one...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    445

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    I take it out as an assembly: steering plate with thrust and control arms still attached. take it to the press as is.saves time too.And avoids smacking the tripe out of the components too. Good luck dude!

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