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Thread: Loose head nut?

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser
    Dont go mad and break a stud. 10nm isnt a lot
    Yes. Beginners frequently make the mistake of using too small of a wrench when removing things and too big of a wrench (and too much force) installing them.

    This might be a good time to consider buying torque wrenches. If you're going to keep working on cars, you'll need them. Buy an inexpensive heavy-duty 3/4 inch drive wrench for lug nuts and other big stuff, and a good quality 1/2 inch drive wrench for small fasteners, like valve cover nuts, throttle body nuts, intake nuts, etc.

    1997 535i V8
    5spd, OBC, A/C, cruise, BMW phone, factory M-Tech wheel & suspension, 18" Alpinas

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVoorhis
    Yes. Beginners frequently make the mistake of using too small of a wrench when removing things and too big of a wrench (and too much force) installing them.

    This might be a good time to consider buying torque wrenches. If you're going to keep working on cars, you'll need them. Buy an inexpensive heavy-duty 3/4 inch drive wrench for lug nuts and other big stuff, and a good quality 1/2 inch drive wrench for small fasteners, like valve cover nuts, throttle body nuts, intake nuts, etc.
    If you are buying a torque wrench, suggest you get one that has a certificate of accuracy. May cost a little more but without it you still wont be sure of the actual torque you have/have not applied

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser
    If you are buying a torque wrench, suggest you get one that has a certificate of accuracy. May cost a little more but without it you still wont be sure of the actual torque you have/have not applied
    I got given one of these for christmas last year - well impressed with it, it's not cheap but it's really accurate and feels good quality.

    Wouldnt normally buy their kit, but this one might be worth it

    If you're strapped for cash, these might be a better option:
    1/4"
    1/2"

    Screwfix are a top notch company, in my experience - their customer service is second to none.

  4. #4
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    Hey i have the same halfords professional one but its bigger and does between 40 and 200nm... I've found it really to be of a really high quality too. Will have to invest in the smaller one before i start messing with the valve cover nut i think.

    Thanks for the advice, i'll prob go with the Halfords professional one for the lower torques.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  5. #5
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    Just to chack, can i replaced the valve cover gasket without adjusting the valves?

    What purpose does adjusting the valves serve, and is it worth doing while i have it open? I don't really want to leave it open for too long though as i will be working on the drive, and i wouldn't want anything unpleasant getting in there.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    Just to chack, can i replaced the valve cover gasket without adjusting the valves?

    What purpose does adjusting the valves serve, and is it worth doing while i have it open? I don't really want to leave it open for too long though as i will be working on the drive, and i wouldn't want anything unpleasant getting in there.
    Yes you can replace the gasket without adjusting the valves. The cover is there to keep the oil in and your fingers out But as Dave said, while its off you may as well check them -its always best to fit a new gasket each time you take something apart. Adjusting the valves takes up slack due to wear.

  7. #7
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    You're clearly very knowledgeable on this subject, and i can't thank you enough for sharing it with me (both of you!!!!)...I apologise for my lack of knoweldge in the area, i haven't been able to download the bentley yet... I normally like to read up thoroughly on any jobs i do before i do them. This one has been sprung upon me so to speak!!!!

    I'll look into the valve thing i think, sounds like it would make the car even nicer to drive. Providing it doesn't require any expensive specialist tools to do i'll give it a go.

    Now for the bentley download...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    You're clearly very knowledgeable on this subject, and i can't thank you enough for sharing it with me (both of you!!!!)...I apologise for my lack of knoweldge in the area, i haven't been able to download the bentley yet... I normally like to read up thoroughly on any jobs i do before i do them. This one has been sprung upon me so to speak!!!!

    I'll look into the valve thing i think, sounds like it would make the car even nicer to drive. Providing it doesn't require any expensive specialist tools to do i'll give it a go.

    Now for the bentley download...
    Question!

    Is the engine fairly quiet (no ticking) and smooth at idle? Is it returning reasonable mpg for the age and size of engine?

    If so, I wouldnt touch your valve clearances untill you've 100% read up about it, got the proper feeler guages and it's already running like crap... messing with the clearences on an M30 when the engine already runs good is a false economy in my book, as they can cause all kindsa problems when disturbed...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ferret
    Question!

    Is the engine fairly quiet (no ticking) and smooth at idle? Is it returning reasonable mpg for the age and size of engine?

    If so, I wouldnt touch your valve clearances untill you've 100% read up about it, got the proper feeler guages and it's already running like crap... messing with the clearences on an M30 when the engine already runs good is a false economy in my book, as they can cause all kindsa problems when disturbed...
    I'd have to say its pretty good. Its relatively quiet until i put my foot down, no ticking but i got a rough idle. This is one thing that doesn't bother me though, i see it as the car massaging me on the way to work!

    Overall the car runs well, and still has a good deal of power. The gasket actually looks good from the outside (from what i can see), as though it has been changed in the past (relatively recently). After doing some detective work other things point to this being the case too - as the valve cover nuts all have metal washers underneath which i here helps prevent the gasket from leaking.

    First thing i'll try is the rubber washer under the metal one and retorque... If the leak still occurs i'll change the gasket. I might leave the valve clearences then until i'm a bit more confident engine-wise because it honestly scares the crap outta me. I don't mind messing with suspension, i'm confident with that now. This will be my first encounter with the engine though, so best to walk before you run.

    I read that you should retorque the bolts from the middle outwards, can anyone elaborate on this? Does it mean if i take this one bolt out i'll need to loosen all the others and retorque them? From the middle outwards, does this mean do the top middle then bottom middle, then the ones either side of these until i reach the sides? (Looking from the side of the car?)

    I hate being confused.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  10. #10
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    I read that you should retorque the bolts from the middle outwards, can anyone elaborate on this?
    The objective is to pull the cover down evenly-bit like nailing down a wonky floorboard
    Does it mean if i take this one bolt out i'll need to loosen all the others and retorque them?
    That would be best
    From the middle outwards, does this mean do the top middle then bottom middle, then the ones either side of these until i reach the sides? (Looking from the side of the car)
    Thats it in a nutshell

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