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Thread: Loose head nut?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    Hey does this link work:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...82&hg=11&fg=15

    Its the top diagram one of the nuts on there... Is that what you imagined?
    Yep that link works fine. Its just what I thought. It occurs to me that if its a domed nut, you could be tightening it as far as it will go but it still wont be tightening down to the cover. Thats how the oil could be getting out. If thats the case a fibre washer should definitely sort it. Hope that helps

  2. #12
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    Cylinder head cover and valve cover are the same thing, definately sounds like a valve cover bolt. Defo won't be a head gasket issue. The torques should be in the bentley manual. The valve cover gasket is a perishable item so its nothing to worry about, I've had mine replaced recently.
    UK 1997 e34 540iA Touring, 1989 535i Sport - now sold, 1998 Mercedes CLK 200 Coupe


  3. #13
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    Whisky - Just to make sure can i take the bolt completely out, put a fibre washer on under the metal one and then torque it bcak up without messing anything up?

    Dave - I'd love to get in there but it looks a little out of my league, i've never dealt with engines before. I have suspicions of sludge as when i do an oil change it only takes 5 Litres, when it should take 5.7 Litres. What would you do? Is it something an amateur (I'm new to this but committed) can do? If so how long would it take and at what cost? Sorry for all the Q's. Oh one more, is this what everyone calls the headgasket or is that somewhere else?
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    Whisky - Just to make sure can i take the bolt completely out, put a fibre washer on under the metal one and then torque it bcak up without messing anything up?

    Dave - I'd love to get in there but it looks a little out of my league, i've never dealt with engines before. I have suspicions of sludge as when i do an oil change it only takes 5 Litres, when it should take 5.7 Litres. What would you do? Is it something an amateur (I'm new to this but committed) can do? If so how long would it take and at what cost? Sorry for all the Q's. Oh one more, is this what everyone calls the headgasket or is that somewhere else?
    From the diagram it looks like you have a domed nut that screws down on a stud. It doesnt matter either way. Just put on the extra washer. You cant do any damage unless you go tightening it. The head gasket is number 2 in the bottom diagram of your link. I dont know the spec for your engine and dont want to insult your intelligence but the the oil filter holds some oil too. That may be the difference though I would think when you change your oild you change your filter too

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    Dave - I'd love to get in there but it looks a little out of my league, i've never dealt with engines before. I have suspicions of sludge as when i do an oil change it only takes 5 Litres, when it should take 5.7 Litres. What would you do? Is it something an amateur (I'm new to this but committed) can do? If so how long would it take and at what cost? Sorry for all the Q's. Oh one more, is this what everyone calls the headgasket or is that somewhere else?
    As Whiskychaser says, the difference in oil quantity is probably what's in the oil filter, plus whatever drizzles and puddles are still in the engine shortly after it's run.

    Changing the valve cover gasket and adjusting valves is certainly something a committed amateur can do, if said amateur has a modicum of mechanical aptitude. If you're good at fixing gadgets, you'll have no problem with this. If, however, you're the sort that finds changing the lead in a mechanical pencil beyond you, and you've thrown out five toasters because you didn't dare pull the crumb tray, then this might not be for you.

    This is not the head gasket. This is the valve cover gasket. The head is bolted to the block, and seals with the head gasket. Changing it, if needed, is a relatively big job. The valve cover is bolted to the head, and seals with the valve cover gasket. Changing it, if needed, is an easy job. Just changing the valve cover gasket takes mere minutes if you've done it before. Changing it and adjusting the valves will probably take you a couple of hours the first time.

    Get the Bentley manual -- it tells how to adjust valves, among other things.

    1997 535i V8
    5spd, OBC, A/C, cruise, BMW phone, factory M-Tech wheel & suspension, 18" Alpinas

  6. #16
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    Cheers guys, the information is much appreciated. GOing to get a fibre washer now see how that goes... I'm thinking i might do the valve cover gasket anyway as there must be a problem for it to be leaking?

    It sounds like i have a good chance of doing it... I am a teacher so i have lots of patience (sometimes!).

    Report back later...

    Again, many thanks.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  7. #17
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    Hey i got a rubber washer from BMW, will put it on once i find these things out!!!! Does anyone know...

    1. What torque will i need to reset the bolt to?

    2. Do i need to undo all the bolts and retorque them?

    3. Am i simply ok to remove the bolt, put the washer on and then put it back in and retorque it or is there any other special things i need to do?

    Thanks... This stuff scares me.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    Hey i got a rubber washer from BMW, will put it on once i find these things out!!!! Does anyone know...

    1. What torque will i need to reset the bolt to?

    2. Do i need to undo all the bolts and retorque them?

    3. Am i simply ok to remove the bolt, put the washer on and then put it back in and retorque it or is there any other special things i need to do?

    Thanks... This stuff scares me.
    1. 10nm
    2. No
    3. Just start in the middle and check all the bolts are tight.
    Dont go mad and break a stud. 10nm isnt a lot

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser
    1. 10nm
    2. No
    3. Just start in the middle and check all the bolts are tight.
    Dont go mad and break a stud. 10nm isnt a lot

    Many thanks... I have a torque wrench but it only operates in the range 40-200nm.

    My studs seem to have metal washers underneath them, but in the diagram BMW have it doesn't show any, so i'm not sure if the PO has had them put on for some reason... However, the engine runs fine besides this tiny leak. Although the leak seems to be getting worse. Will try and undo the nut tomorrow and throw the rubber washer on the bottom. Fingers crossed ay.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser
    Dont go mad and break a stud. 10nm isnt a lot
    Yes. Beginners frequently make the mistake of using too small of a wrench when removing things and too big of a wrench (and too much force) installing them.

    This might be a good time to consider buying torque wrenches. If you're going to keep working on cars, you'll need them. Buy an inexpensive heavy-duty 3/4 inch drive wrench for lug nuts and other big stuff, and a good quality 1/2 inch drive wrench for small fasteners, like valve cover nuts, throttle body nuts, intake nuts, etc.

    1997 535i V8
    5spd, OBC, A/C, cruise, BMW phone, factory M-Tech wheel & suspension, 18" Alpinas

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