Hi guys,
I want to do a total cooloing system r&r before the winter. I have a new water pump, t-stat, and coolant. what else do you guys suggest doing? anyone have a parts list? where do you buy the replacement metal t-stat housing?
TIA
Hi guys,
I want to do a total cooloing system r&r before the winter. I have a new water pump, t-stat, and coolant. what else do you guys suggest doing? anyone have a parts list? where do you buy the replacement metal t-stat housing?
TIA
since youll be in there I would suggest replacing all hoses and belts, should be good for another 100k. I only removed the passanger side block drain and flushed the old stuff out 3 times til it was clear, make sure the heater is on hot and full speed. When your done flushing you should add 1/2 the amount coolant first as there will be a lot of water trapped and if you instal it pre mixed your final mixture will be too weak. System is self bleeding and you will usually have to top it of 2-3 times over the next few times you drive the car.
Edit: should be able to locate the metal housing at BMAparts or autohauz along with the hoses and belts.
Originally Posted by charlie
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
thx Jeff...when you say hoses you're talking upper and lower only or some others? about how many?
Originally Posted by 632 Regal
when I did mine I asked Patrick@bma to look up ALL the hoses including the ones to the heater core and the filler tank. Didnt want to peice meal it so now its all 100% restored to fresh. I think there was like 6-8 total with a long small one for the pisser and fill tank. I don't tolerate break downs very well.
Originally Posted by charlie
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
You might want to think about the radiator. From what I've read, the M60 is notorious for the upper neck breaking where the hose clamps on. Mine broke at about 130,000 miles. A few thousand later, so did the water pump. :-(
Oh and hoses?
Most radiator neck broke because people tightened it too much. However, most radiator will start to leak around 110,000 miles.
The neck on my radiator was broken by a garage, i went in with a duff water pump and came out with a new pump and a broken radiator (I knew I should have done it myself). The new radiator doesn't have a neck protruding out, the connector is recessed into the radiator and much more dificult to break. Real OEM also shows the pic of the radiator with no neck
UK 1997 e34 540iA Touring, 1989 535i Sport - now sold, 1998 Mercedes CLK 200 Coupe
I was just stunned to hear that the (dealer) shop that I have my '94 530 at can't get the fan clutch off of the shaft of the water pump, and that it appears to be broken.
( I took it in to have the top and bottom radiator hoses replaced, as well as both belts replaced)
The part that stunned me was the quote for 5.5 hours of labor + parts costing over $1k.
Is it really that involved of a job?
I'm about tempted to have it towed to my house and figure it out myself.
Anyone have any suggestions for a more reasonable shop in the phoenix (az) area?
Any help / advice would be supremely welcomed.
Do it yourself... it is not that hard at all.