Wtf?! Water Pump?

[Sam-Son]

Autohausaz usually offers a couple temps

Thanks. so logically the lower the temp the cooler my car will be

[Dave M]

Thanks. so logically the lower the temp the cooler my car will be

Yes......................if you were asking a question

Also, I don't recall if you're running hotter than normal (~12:00 on the guage)From a brief look back at your posts, it doesn't appear so. If you're not running hot, due to a high temp or bung thermo, I'm not sure why you'd want a cooler temp, but thats for you to decide.

Good luck with it,

Dave

[Sam-Son]

Yes......................if you were asking a question

Also, I don't recall if you're running hotter than normal (~12:00 on the guage)From a brief look back at your posts, it doesn't appear so. If you're not running hot, due to a high temp or bung thermo, I'm not sure why you'd want a cooler temp, but thats for you to decide.

Good luck with it,

Dave

Thanks. Yeah it kinda was a question I guess I should have made it clear. My temp tends to run just alittle to the right of dead center and occasionally my temp guage will go almost right up to the red then come back to center, all very slowly as if the car was about to over heat and the T stat kicked in just in time.

[Dave M]

Thanks. Yeah it kinda was a question I guess I should have made it clear. My temp tends to run just alittle to the right of dead center and occasionally my temp guage will go almost right up to the red then come back to center, all very slowly as if the car was about to over heat and the T stat kicked in just in time.

This is definitely not normal and needs to be remedied. Barring a failed head gasket/cracked cylinder head etc. (mixing coolant/oil, burning coolant symptoms?), you need to get your cooling system under control.

You may simply have a bum thermo that sticks in the closed position, OR you could have an air bubble in the system. At minimum, you should change the thermo and bleed the system properly. If you need assistance, there is much written here. Hopefully the excursions toward the red zone haven't damaged the head.

Dave

[Sam-Son]

This is definitely not normal and needs to be remedied. Barring a failed head gasket/cracked cylinder head etc. (mixing coolant/oil, burning coolant symptoms?), you need to get your cooling system under control.

You may simply have a bum thermo that sticks in the closed position, OR you could have an air bubble in the system. At minimum, you should change the thermo and bleed the system properly. If you need assistance, there is much written here. Hopefully the excursions toward the red zone haven't damaged the head.

Dave

I must stress once in a while as in very rarely. I chaulked it up to the fact that I was idling for 15 mins in 90 degree heat with the a/c on and I just had a bum instrument cluster. either weay I'm gonna get a new t stat and bleed the system

[Dave M]

oh what the heck, here are the brake pad sensors for ~$9

Dave

[txp135]

Jon K,

I know you said to not replace with Stewart water pump due to cost. However, it also provides a lifetime warranty. Now I know you said that you have friends that have these failed, which might be manufacturing defective units rather than design flaws?

The reason I'm asking is since I'm considering the Stewart one so I don't have to change it every 2 yrs. I'm glad I stumbled into this thread before I plunk the money down. If the Stewart pump can last 3 times as long as the oe one, it would make sense to me since I'm keeping the car for a long time. So was the failures you saw were the exceptions or the norm for Stewart pumps? I value your opinion and experience. Thanks.

[Jon K]

Jon K,

I know you said to not replace with Stewart water pump due to cost. However, it also provides a lifetime warranty. Now I know you said that you have friends that have these failed, which might be manufacturing defective units rather than design flaws?

The reason I'm asking is since I'm considering the Stewart one so I don't have to change it every 2 yrs. I'm glad I stumbled into this thread before I plunk the money down. If the Stewart pump can last 3 times as long as the oe one, it would make sense to me since I'm keeping the car for a long time. So was the failures you saw were the exceptions or the norm for Stewart pumps? I value your opinion and experience. Thanks.

You might consider this thread:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...6&postcount=18

My feelings on it are, either they designed a super efficient impeller blade (not all that likely from the units I've seen), or they're over-driving the pump with a slightly smaller input wheel or something - again, not sure. But, the issue has been that cars I have put these on are either 100% fine, or are having fan clutch/blade issues. I have seen 2 or 3 cars literally rocket the fan blades off of the fan! This makes me think that thing might be over-driven, but again, I don't remember putting a new belt wheel on it!

It's some sort of mystery - I have had great luck with OE pumps and my car probably makes as much heat as any other car on here, and I have never had a temperature issue.

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

Change a metal impellor pump every 2 years????????.Drill the housing, thread in a grease nipple, pressurise a little, end of problem,on second pump in 12 years,original owner did that in `98 and pump still fine.

[AllGo'n'Show]

Sam-Son

From my personal experience, the m30 pump is easy as hell to do. Buy a new pump, new gasket, new t-stat, some new coolant and spend an hour or 2 u got free soon and do it all at the same time. No point in taking the water pump off the t-stat housing then just replacing the t-stat ot do the waterpump a few months later. Bleed it all properly in the end and the elimates like 4-5 things to your overheating problem that, trust me on this too, if you don't fix soon, it will turn into something.