Head gasket replacement options

[Bin_jammin]

Yes, the head bolts are on my shopping list. I've also read the warnings about the chain tensioner piece on the M30 and hopefully I will not damage it. I can't seem to find a source for these precision straight edges...even online.

Any competent machine shop will be able to make you a calibrated straight-edge, for pretty short money. After all, if you're qualified to machine aluminum, you're probably qualified to cut some steel. Make a nice case for the edge, you don't want to be dropping or dinging it.

Another thing, when you've got the head off, clean it until it's bare metal. I've always used a right angle grinder with an aluminum cleaning cookie on it. You don't want to get fooled into thinking your head is warped by having anything left on it at all. Don't assume that because you've scraped it it's straight, it you can see the outline of the old gasket, there's probably too much left behind.

Get a nice set of feeler gauges for checking warpage, and get a nice set of ANGLED feeler gauges for later on when you're adjusting the valves. The exhaust manifolds are a piece of cake, put them on when the head's in the car. The intake manifold is going to be tougher, put it on outside the car, and install it with the head, getting to the underside nuts can be a trial. Don't bother pulling the starter, just take the leads off.

It's really a simple job on the m30, it's very hard to goof up.

[Rus]

Any competent machine shop will be able to make you a calibrated straight-edge, for pretty short money. After all, if you're qualified to machine aluminum, you're probably qualified to cut some steel. Make a nice case for the edge, you don't want to be dropping or dinging it.

Another thing, when you've got the head off, clean it until it's bare metal. I've always used a right angle grinder with an aluminum cleaning cookie on it. You don't want to get fooled into thinking your head is warped by having anything left on it at all. Don't assume that because you've scraped it it's straight, it you can see the outline of the old gasket, there's probably too much left behind.

Get a nice set of feeler gauges for checking warpage, and get a nice set of ANGLED feeler gauges for later on when you're adjusting the valves. The exhaust manifolds are a piece of cake, put them on when the head's in the car. The intake manifold is going to be tougher, put it on outside the car, and install it with the head, getting to the underside nuts can be a trial. Don't bother pulling the starter, just take the leads off.

It's really a simple job on the m30, it's very hard to goof up.

Thanks for tips I've got a couple of sets of feeler gauges, both straight and angled. I haven't had any time yet to explore the machine shops in my area, but I'll definitely give them a go first before dumping 65-100 bucks on a straight edge.

Would anyone know who makes this chemical that can test for combustion gases (CO2) in the coolant? I've found a Snap-On kit, but it costs nearly 70 dollars and is obviously meant and sized for shop use. I wouldn't have a use for 16 oz of fluid after one test

[gale]

Would anyone know who makes this chemical that can test for combustion gases (CO2) in the coolant?

SJ Tools (no affiliation) sells a kit for $25

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis75500.html

[Robin-535im]

Thanks for tips I've got a couple of sets of feeler gauges, both straight and angled. I haven't had any time yet to explore the machine shops in my area, but I'll definitely give them a go first before dumping 65-100 bucks on a straight edge.

Personally... I wouldn't bother checking it myself as you could probably have a machine shop put it up on a machine bed and have it indicated out with a dial indicator on a CNC machine. So if you spend the $$ for the straight edge, either a) you think it's bad and take it in to the shop, where they go ahead and re-measure it before skimming it, or b) you think it's okay and if you're like me... still take it in to the shop to have them double check!

For $100 bucks you might get it checked AND cleaned up at a good shop.

[Rus]

SJ Tools (no affiliation) sells a kit for $25

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis75500.html

Thank you gale! Just placed my order there. Let's hope the analyzer will help me reach some sort of diagnosis.

And Robin,
You are probably right. Knowing my anal self, I'd probably end up bringing the head to a pro anyway.

Thanks again guys, I'll keep this thread updated as I try to solve this.

[Bin_jammin]

SJ Tools (no affiliation) sells a kit for $25

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis75500.html

I don't know if you know any of your local shops, but I've got a sniffer here, and we don't charge more than $40 or so to sniff coolant for HC, might be time to hit up your locals.

[Rus]

I don't know if you know any of your local shops, but I've got a sniffer here, and we don't charge more than $40 or so to sniff coolant for HC, might be time to hit up your locals.

I don't know of any local shop that I'd let within a mile of my car.

[Bin_jammin]

I don't know of any local shop that I'd let within a mile of my car.

Dude, I've been a mechanic for a long time, and I totally agree with you. If it helps, there's not much they could do to your car while sniffing the coolant, as the only two things they need to touch would be the hood and the coolant tank cap.

[Rus]

Dude, I've been a mechanic for a long time, and I totally agree with you. If it helps, there's not much they could do to your car while sniffing the coolant, as the only two things they need to touch would be the hood and the coolant tank cap.

Well, I'd rather not give them the chance to screw up. As an example, I had new tires mounted and balanced at a shop not too long ago. Naturally I decided to be normal and bring the wheels while they were still attached to a car (not doing that again). This was the first time my car ever entered a shop of any sort after getting a complete repaint. Two years without a single ding or scuff...only to have one of the grease monkeys set some of his crap down on my trunk and then move it. Presto...we've got a scuff mark on a perfect paint job. Naturally I'll never set foot in that establishment again. Unfortunately, the general work ethic and standards in my area seem to be much lower than in other places I've lived. The best service I've gotten around here was from smaller businesses where the owner actually cared about his customer. BTW, after my car was scratched, I also had to clean the driver's interior area from the same grease monkey. In the long run, it comes down to what the business owner/operator enforces in his shop.

P.S.: My other motive for not letting a shop sniff my coolant is that I want to see how this procedure works. I guess that's the curious engineer in me

[Bin_jammin]

Well, I'd rather not give them the chance to screw up. As an example, I had new tires mounted and balanced at a shop not too long ago. Naturally I decided to be normal and bring the wheels while they were still attached to a car (not doing that again). This was the first time my car ever entered a shop of any sort after getting a complete repaint. Two years without a single ding or scuff...only to have one of the grease monkeys set some of his crap down on my trunk and then move it. Presto...we've got a scuff mark on a perfect paint job. Naturally I'll never set foot in that establishment again. Unfortunately, the general work ethic and standards in my area seem to be much lower than in other places I've lived. The best service I've gotten around here was from smaller businesses where the owner actually cared about his customer. BTW, after my car was scratched, I also had to clean the driver's interior area from the same grease monkey. In the long run, it comes down to what the business owner/operator enforces in his shop.


P.S.: My other motive for not letting a shop sniff my coolant is that I want to see how this procedure works. I guess that's the curious engineer in me

Too bad you're not closer to New England, if you can push your car up here I'll be happy to let you watch, you may be disappointed though, it's really not exciting:

Open expansion tank
Start car and warm to operating temp
Attach sniffer to scan tool, set tool to sniffer mode, purge lines on sniffer etc...
put sniffer end to coolant tank opening
Let sniffer sniff
Read sniffer and check that HC is stable at 3ppm or lower
Charge customer for test