so how long should ths take and what should i replaced besides the gaskets themselves? im thinking about doing this next to get rid of my rough idle when cold.
so how long should ths take and what should i replaced besides the gaskets themselves? im thinking about doing this next to get rid of my rough idle when cold.
Mark
1999 M3 Cosmos Black/ Black 78k
1994 540i Oxford Green/ Silver Grey Sold @ 133k
1995 M3 Arctic Silver/Black Sold @ 117k
1990 325i Zinnobar Red/Black Sold @ 115k
also an idea on price of the parts too would be nice.
Mark
1999 M3 Cosmos Black/ Black 78k
1994 540i Oxford Green/ Silver Grey Sold @ 133k
1995 M3 Arctic Silver/Black Sold @ 117k
1990 325i Zinnobar Red/Black Sold @ 115k
These are 2005-6 prices from BMA:
Diverter valve 11 61 7 501 562 - $43.00
Cap 11 61 1 747085 - $2.50
Profile gasket 11 61 1 729 728 - $3.45
Profile gasket 11 61 1 729 727 - $4.25
Profile gasket 11 61 1 433 328 Quantity 4 - $12.50 each
Cap 11 611437694 - $1.10
Screw 11 14 1 460752 Quantity 7 - $0.35 each
I also did all the rubber hoses and clamps, fuel lines; anything that felt or looked brittle.
Originally Posted by markus
Ramon
1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
Tampa Bay, Florida USA
I just finished this job and actually have to take the manifold off again this weekend to fix a leaking gasket on cylinders 1 and 2. It took my dad and I probably 3 or 4 hours to get the manifold off, and clean everything. I dont remember how long it took to get back together but it was probably close to as long as it took to take off. You'll find that the injector harness is pretty much a pain in the ass as you can't really move it out of the way, you kind of have to maneuver the manifold around it. If you aren't taking the fuel rail off you will save some time as it is a pain in itself. When I took the manifold off I replaced the throttle body gasket, the rear gasket for the pcv and the pcv. You can find my thread here, it includes links to various parts lists and instructions. I took a bunch of pictures that show everything pretty well. If you'd like, I can shoot them over to you or post them here, just let me know.
Good luck
And don't forget the waterpump pipe... you should do the waterpump at the same time too.
Yeah, I can't imagine doing the water pump w/o taking everything out of the way. Unfortunately, I didn't get all the o-rings I needed to replace but nothing leaks anymore*knock on wood*. There is also a pipe that attatches to the intake manifold that you will have to disconnect while you are pulling the manifold, might want to see if you can get some help, though it is able to be done by yourself. When I get home I'll throw some pics up, they should make it somewhat easier since you'll know what to look for.
make sure you do the PCV plate or whatever they call that thing...that's where my rough idle was coming from
I used Anaerobic gasket sealer on the valve covers after replacing them for the third time. Not a leak since. I think Permatex makes it. It was recommended by my indy. Looks like grape jelly.
While I had the intake off, I did everything folks mentioned plus replaced the galley cover. Those are known to leak too. Also did all the heater hoses. And the injector seals.....
It was a long project, but the car ran much better afterwards and is still running strong 35k miles later.
Robert Callaway
Dallas, TX
'94 530im 143k mi
'94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.
"If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."
Here's some shots of when I did mine:
http://rides.webshots.com/album/547573582fsDOsR
Ramon
1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
Tampa Bay, Florida USA
Your looking at about 10 hours if you've not done it before. Have some good, made-in-usa vice grips ready for the bastard screws. The heads are soft and they get seized on, this was the worst part for me. Replace them with hex heads from the hardware store.