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Thread: bushings question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Oklahoma
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuckNaked
    Have you tried heat?
    I have read that heat should only be used as a last resort, because it weakens the metal and makes it easier to break. i still have more tools left.

    i do have a torch handy, but since its on the strut and the break system is right next to it im hesitant to consider heat.

    Good news is that im not bleeding yet. Im just not sure what to try next. Going to keep cursing and soaking it in pb blaster

  2. #12
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    Aug 2006
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    Oklahoma
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    Quote Originally Posted by 632 Regal
    what 2 bolts??? or you mean 2 of the 3 on the steering knuckle? If so I had a tight fitting 6 point impact socket that I ground flat (for more grip area) put the 1/2" drive ratchet on it and added about 3 foot of pipe and they turned right out.

    your getting there... more beer
    Yeah the two of the three on the knuckle. One came off without any trouble at all, first one I tried. I even got the throttle arm brushing disconnected without much trouble.

    Quote Originally Posted by markus
    PB blaster and a long ratchet will take those suckers out. this job inst hard but it is time consuming. the worst part is getting those damn balljoints out.
    The joints on my ratchet ends/extensions keep breaking. Having to use the largest size type, and they are harder to fit into that space. Considering taking more of the break assembly apart, especially that damn metal shield like thing on the knuckle side.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    You need one of this...

    http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cemldffidfmm.0

    I had mine since like 90... Nothing is impossible. On your air gun... did you set to maximum power on the dial? Did you use pneumatic oil to lube it before rattling away?

  4. #14
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    finally, they came off with the air gun at 120 psi.

    Lot of bad news under the car... The knuckle connects with the lower control arm, the upper control arm, and some other ball joint part. This part looks like its in pretty bad shape, the rubber is almost gone and the ball joint moves freely with almost no resistance on both ends.

    Could someone name this other part?
    Its an arm and has a threaded part. I guess I will take a picture if I have to.

  5. #15
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...36&hg=32&fg=25

    Kind of hard for me to identify it from this diagram. I think its the "right tie rod arm"?
    Its in the middle of #8,#5,#3

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Indiana
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    Or find a pipe and hammer one opening into an oval. A cheap persuader.
    InDEuroz | e34 540i/6 '94 w/ bore/stroked m62 | e30 325iS '87 | Ducati 748R '00

  7. #17
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    Thought maybe someone would be interested to see the carnage:




  8. #18
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    Location
    Oklahoma
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  9. #19
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    Aug 2006
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    Oklahoma
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    A while back I ordered some rods for my 1984 E28 533i and never installed them. I think they look identical!




    Im going to look through my receipts to try and find a part number to make sure it would be compatible.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Yes, It is exact same part... look it up on bmaparts.com... it comes up exactly the same. Look, do yourself a favor... change the whole entire steering out. It is not much money and you are good for next 100,000 miles.

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