when I changed mine that's about everything I needed...aside from coolant then blleeeeeeeeeeddddOriginally Posted by ///Sniper535
So the car is starting to overheat more often and it's getting VERY frustrating because this happened before but last time it was just air in the system. I keep trying to bleed the system to see if air comes out but close to nothing. So I'm going to change the thermostat. What are all the parts I need?
I have the thermostat and the o-ring that proceeds it. Anything else?
when I changed mine that's about everything I needed...aside from coolant then blleeeeeeeeeeddddOriginally Posted by ///Sniper535
HID 5000k low 3000k fogs
dynaudio seps. mc intosh amp
ACS w/yokohama advan sport tires
Race logic TractionControl
What is this "Set the temperature setting to full warm"? How do i do that?
huh?where'd it say that?Originally Posted by ///Sniper535
HID 5000k low 3000k fogs
dynaudio seps. mc intosh amp
ACS w/yokohama advan sport tires
Race logic TractionControl
it's talking about the temp setting on you clement control. put the heater on full blast, this gets the air out of your heater core."Set the temperature setting to full warm"?
bilstin HDs, eiback prokit, K&N instert, DEPO fogs, sound system, zimmerman rotors, metal master
Originally Posted by ///Sniper535
Sometimes, I swear this board makes me feel superstitious and gives me goose-bumps. I was just driving back from Sheffield yesterday afternoon when my temp gauge suddenly started going past 12-o'clock and on towards the red also. To cut a long story short, it seems like it could be that my thermostat valve just decided to seize up in the closed position. During install of a new one, unfortunately the T-stat plastic housing cracked. So I'm trying to source one of those and the gasket before I can call the job done. Am in a bit of a rush right now, but will hopefully post details later with pics of the damaged parts.
So as to your question about anything else ... be gently with tightening the bolts back on the housing. Tighten the bolts each a little at a time. Either it got unevenly overstressed on mine or the plastic itself had become too brittle over the 12 years, but it didn't take much for the bugger to crack and leave me stranded miles from home. Ended up being transported on a flatbed truck, but more about that another day. Finally, check your new T-stat is the correct temperature one for your engine.
Good luck with your install.
Mas
95-525i manual rhd black
Confucius says, "War does not determine who's right. War determine who's left"
There are dials or knobs somewhere on your dash which can be used to adjust the interior temperature of the vehicle. These controls should be set to the warmest possible setting, and having the fan on low wouldnt hurt either.Originally Posted by ///Sniper535
Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
southwest WA
Be glad your housing cracked while the car was down as it was surely just a matter of time for it to break and make you walk home.Originally Posted by Mas (UK)
My radiator popped last week at the upper radiator hose connection while I was in a store. Came out (right after telling my wife we were rich!, long story) to see green alien blood all over the ground right under my car. I am glad we didn't take the almost three hour ride to Cologne the previous weekend as I am sure she would have popped way far from home.
So I figure your ride did you a favor by breaking while she was broken.
By the way, my plastic housing (had it replaced with the radiator as it was plastic and of unknown age) was under 15 euro. I've seen it online in the States for $15 also.
Brian
Should also be your thermostatic fan that do not operate properly.Originally Posted by ///Sniper535