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Thread: Periodic loud ticking immediately after oil change M50

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lexington, Kentucky
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    0w30 and 0w40 do not seem to be real suitable for M50s with "advanced" miles. Mine started getting a random idle tick when warm with 0w30 castrol syntec with about 4,500 miles on the fill. I changed to a blend of 10w40 (2 quarts) and 5w50 (4 quarts) castrol syntec and no more warm idle noise.

    0w40 mobil 1 was just noisy. I just did not like it. Going to stay with heavier oils, especially in the summer.
    Last edited by Russell; 06-14-2007 at 08:11 PM.
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  2. #2
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    Jan 2004
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    Default Thats very strange,

    I put Mobil 1 0w40 in all my customers euro cars and haven't had any problems at all with it. M50,m30,m52,m52tu,m60,m70 , and i'm fairly certain that our ambient temps here are much higher than where your at. I also have valve covers off fairly often and haven't seen any signs of camshaft lobe wear which is one of the first places that would indicate if the oil was insufficient, Here's a birdseye view of a merc that i was working on today that i've been putting mobil one in since 0w40 came out. Cam lobes show no wear and everythings clean, no sludge. Can't say the same about the small block chevy that i worked on last week that spun the number 1 and 2 rod bearings running 20w50 though




    Quote Originally Posted by Russell
    0w30 and 0w40 do not seem to be real suitable for M50s with "advanced" miles. Mine started getting a random idle tick when warm with 0w30 castrol syntec with about 4,500 miles on the fill. I changed to a blend of 10w40 (2 quarts) and 5w50 (4 quarts) castrol syntec and no more warm idle noise.

    0w40 mobil 1 was just noisy. I just did not like it. Going to stay with heavier oils, especially in the summer.
    Attached Images Attached Images   


  3. #3
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    Just my experience. I just may have problems with my engine. UOA results have always shown high lead with 0w40 and 0w30 oil. For the 70,000 miles I have owned the car, oil and filter have been changed every 4,000 to 5,000 miles with mostly synthetic. PO followed the oil change lights which meant around 7,000 miles with conventional oil. Lead may just be residiul junk that is left over from 140,000 miles of use. Who knows??

    Car has treated with Auto-RX engine cleaner twice to remove any sludge that might be there. Anyway, car seem to run fine.
    Last edited by Russell; 06-15-2007 at 03:53 PM.
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  4. #4
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    Dec 2006
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    Montreal
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    update: today i put in 15w50. The tick was still there, pretty loud. It would periodically disappear however. I then drain about half a quart of oil and put in half a quart of sea foam - i will see if that cleans anything out. The oil I took out of the engine was quite black already....

    This is really strange. Just before the oil change I installed an EAT chip. Could the advanced timing have messed up my vavles or lifters?

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Honolulu
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    Default Did you let the new oil warm up

    multi grades thicken as the car warms up.

    I'd give it some time before freaking out.


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  6. #6
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    If the oil got black very quickly then it sounds like the detergents are doing what they are supposed to. Or, you could be running overly rich. Has you fuel economy taken a dump concurrent with the chip?
    Is it clean inside the rocker cover when you remove the cap?
    Advanced timing won't screw up your valves.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  7. #7
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    PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ross
    If the oil got black very quickly then it sounds like the detergents are doing what they are supposed to. Or, you could be running overly rich. Has you fuel economy taken a dump concurrent with the chip?
    Is it clean inside the rocker cover when you remove the cap?
    Advanced timing won't screw up your valves.
    Ross oil won't turn black from running overly rich - if he's running retarded rich the car would reek of fuel and would have gasoline in the oil (blow past the rings). It sounds like the oil is working and he's paranoid. I do hope you are running at least 91/92 octane OP?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon K
    Ross oil won't turn black from running overly rich - if he's running retarded rich the car would reek of fuel and would have gasoline in the oil (blow past the rings). It sounds like the oil is working and he's paranoid. I do hope you are running at least 91/92 octane OP?

    well it's working in the sense that it's lubricating my car, but it's not working in the sense that i still have a loud ticking sound, which is the symptom I am trying to cure.

    I am not paranoid.

    I am running 93 octane.
    Last edited by repenttokyo; 06-14-2007 at 10:25 PM.

  9. #9
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    I've driven it about 10 km's so far. Do you think that would be enough? It's been city / stop and go style.

    I really appreciate everyone's help. It's upsetting that this has occured now, as I have a cross country road trip planned for August. If this tick is just an annoying sound, that's one thing. If it's something that is eventually going to implode my motor, that's another. I need to figure out which one it is.

  10. #10
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    my fuel mileage has actually improved by about 2-3 mpg overal since, so I don't think it's overly rich.

    Inside the rocker cover seems to have some sludge, I keep getting black solidish oil on the tip and sides of my funnel when i pull it out / move it around while changing the oil.

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