what's caster arm bushing in Aussie language?

[shogun]

Here the copied text, it is an E32 740 which went to a diagnosis for 55 Aussie $ = 45 US$:

quote
Also took the car for a test drive to Diagnose suspension problems I was having. He says the "caster arm" bushing needs replacing for the front left. Is this another name for the Upper control arm? He pointed to what needed doing, which I believe was upper control arm.

unquote

another question:
Anyone knows where to get this sensor cheaper in AUS than 170 $, US price is less than 20 $:
quote

Climate Control System: Temperature Sensor. My suspicions about my ongoing heater problem (AKA the heater that won't turn itself off) were answered with this. I have believed for a long time that the driver side Heater Core temperature sensor was faulty and I think this confirms this. Now I just have to contend with dismantling the centre console to replace it. Does anybody know where to get this specific sensor from cheaper? Dealer quoted AUD$170 special order from Germany. Part Number 64 11 1 384 253
unquote

That is no. 3 here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...64&fg=40&hl=24

[Paul in NZ]

Any of the US BMW parts places will be able to do that sensor for a better price than that .Dont forget to check the drivers side heater valve isnt stuck partially open.

[Podmore]

Yep, the upper control arm effectively controls the caster of the front wheel so it could be called a 'caster arm'; it also resists the thrust of the wheel to the rear under braking so it could be called a 'thrust' arm; it sits higher than the lower control arm so it gets called the 'upper control arm'; whatever it's called, it's the bit that has the bush that gets worn out and causes front end shimmy .......

[shogun]

Perfect explanation. Podmore.
Thanks

[genphreak]

Perfect explanation. Podmore.
Thanks

Interestingly, the Grunt's bushings, originally dark green, are very similar to the Noltec ones (www.noltec.com.au) and are the best replacement if you are in Aus, as they are made here and can be bought direct form the manufacturer here (Noltec are near Pennant Hills in Sydney)- just down the road from me. I hear the blue ones are not as hard as the green ones... which would eb a good thing! I care not however, they are not that bad and I hate having to replace the damned things all the time.

[shogun]

I read this on Roadfly E32 forum:

Steve Haygood stopped selling Grunt's PU bushes

Message: The PU isn't very robust. If a crack starts the whole bushing will begin to crumble. I had this problem on the RH side -- I suspect the bushing was getting warmed by the exhaust pipe.

If protected from heat the extra stifness dampens out most, if not all, of the shimmy IF ALL THE OTHER PARTS ARE GOOD (tie rods outer and center, idler arm, Pitman arm, control arm ball joints).

In my E32 and E24 the shimmy isn't affected by new shocks/springs or upper strut mounts. Rear suspension bushings and mounts also don't affect it. In the archives I found one -- one, mind you, out of hundreds -- reference to R&R of rear brake calipers solving the 55mph shimmy. I have a rebuilt set that I'll install this weekend (one old one is sticking after 213k miles) and will post the results. I'm not hopeful.

I approach The Shimmy from a rather metaphysical mind set after all these years. I have a large, handsome, luxury car that cost litle to buy and is relativly easy to fix (M30 motor). My good fortune in this regard is balanced by the existance of The Shimmy. Ying and yang. If The Shimmy ever disappears I'll be so blissfully happy surely my head will explode with automotive joy making my wife a widow and orphaning my three sons. So, you see, I and those I love are actually better off for having The Shimmy.

Greg Rea
ex-1986 E24 arctic blue turbo shark (sold March 6th, 2007)
1989 E32/M30 white whale
1965 Ford Falcon Futura Convertible (289 auto)