go to hardware store and buy can of CO2 for freezing pipes to fix domestic leaks,heat subframe and freeze bush,put plate on top and hi-tensile bolt through wind like hell.
I cant get this bushing in all the way - its not happening. Ive tried EVERYTHING - twice. Its just sticking out the bottom about 1/2".
I decided to take the car of the stand as i think it was twisting the frame (its been on since sunday when i started the bushing job) and is making the central locking make a funny sound when locking the car. I reattached the plate that has the three nuts in (two small and one big one that goes through the bushing), but i was wandering if this is safe to drive? I was kind of hoping that a couple of speed bumps might pop the bushing into the housing for me? Im guessing it'll do that or rip it out?
The bushing housing feels different to the other side (obviously) - in that at the top of the 'ok' side there is a gap between the housing and the chassis with the two rubber parts protruding out the top to soften blows. The side i have worked on just has the car and the subframe housing resting on each other, is it ok to drive with it like this? My car's been off the road for 5 days and i havent even changed one bushing fully yet. Im scared to attempt the other side with the luck ive been having.
I know i've put a few threads in over this but im really stuck here, its become a big problem. Its like im working two jobs - as soon as i come home from work at 6pm, im under the car until 10pm when it goes dark to try and get it back on the road. The most annoying thing is, its making me love my car less and less - and its the car i dreamt of owning for such a long time.
Just to reiterate what ive tried so far to get it in:
Jacked it in
Hot water as lube and jack
Heat gun and jack
WD40 and jack
Hammer and jack
Lump hammer
Nut and bolt through (killed the thread)
3-in-1 oil and jack.
My worry is i can see myself having to cut this bushing out and putting another in - which will take me a lot of time if similar to last time, and cost more ££. Worst case scenario here of course.
Anyone had this kind of trouble before? Any suggestions welcome - What should i do?
go to hardware store and buy can of CO2 for freezing pipes to fix domestic leaks,heat subframe and freeze bush,put plate on top and hi-tensile bolt through wind like hell.
Drive the car, it may work itself in.
Hope this hasn't ruined your DIY days. What is a lump hammer?
Edit: Nevermind, your British I see. We in the states call it a big ****ing hammer. You know, us colonials are a bit crude.
Last edited by Ross; 05-24-2007 at 06:02 PM.
"The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"
OT - they have cans to freeze the pipes so you can work on them? That's a great idea. I haven't heard of that but I like it.Originally Posted by Barney Paull-Edwards
On Topic - If it's sticking out the bottom, driving won't seat it. The subframe probably pushes up on the car if anything, but most of the load is taken by the strut. That subframe mounting point doesn't support axial loads as a primary function, mostly it positions the frame to the car in a stable but forgiving way.
The 19mm or 22mm nut that holds the "3-bolt plate" onto the bottom doesn't contact the bushing when properly installed, hence the market for Bruno's subframe bushings that fill that gap. That plate probably will apply much less force than your jack did. Can you take it to a shop and pay them a six-pack of beer to just press it in using the right tool? Probably okay to drive a little but I wouldn't want to go to far, and check it out often to make sure you're not punching a hole in the bottom of the car.
At wits end I would find a very solid mount to sit the sticking-out part of the bushing on, leave all the tires on in case it falls off, and lower the weight of the car onto that very solid mount, pushing up on the bushing. Then try heating the sleeve with a torch... (cold hoops get smaller in diameter, warm ones open up). Have water ready! If it melts the bushing, hey, now that one's out of the way and you can start over.
Good luck!! Don't let the bushing win!! Keep going until you press it's butt into submission!!
Last edited by Robin-535im; 05-24-2007 at 07:07 PM.
Robin
72 Chevy K10
01 E39 M5
yeah, I used to be a plumber's apprentice, I never actually used it, but I have seen it before. it is actually pretty neat as long as it keeps the pipes frozenOriginally Posted by Robin-535im
for the morale boost!!!! Helped a lot, i was getting a downhearted. Ive put so much effort into this thing, with nothing to show for it yet. Im hoping i feel an improvement when i get to drive with the new ones in! Think im gonna use some washing up liquid on the other one - lesser of two evils an all that.
That pipe freezing stuff sounds like the way forward, gonna give that a go tomorrow. Im hoping its readily available at hardware stores? I tried just heating the housing up tonight and using the jack under the bushing - no progress.
I feel like flipping the car over and taking a full on sledge hammer to the bushing now (it'd go in then im sure!), but dont worry - i wont give up till its in!
Thanks guys.
Went to the hardware store today, got some extra strong galvanised bolts to try and tighten the bush in tomorrow. Also got the freeze in a can, but need to know a couple of things if you've used it before-
1. How much should i use and where to spray on the bushing (its mostly in the subframe hoop now)?
2. Should i freeze the bush and wait a few mins then heat the subframe, or heat first then spray the freeze on the bush?
Wish me luck...
Heat sub-frame first, then freeze bush,done it loads of times on Jaguar bushes and it might take two goes but the bush will fall in,just be careful you stop it from going too far, then you really would be up **** creek!
i dont know why that last little bit is such a headache ...i have done over 50 of these and never had a problem putting them in as long as the bushing is froze over night and you bring it out right b-4 you put it in and use a cut down 4x4 with a hole in the center of it for the bolt when it comes thru the bushing ...then take a long bar and pry down on the top of the arm and housing when the bushing goes the last little bit then done ...no co2 in a can no heating ...