Why not let idler arm ball joint beat itself loose? Using puller is a real bear. Up side down, no space, etc. Manufacturer's recommendation for the "U" shaped pullers with bolt at bottom of the"U" calls for tightening the bolt and then hitting the bolt on the head to release the pitman arm, whatever.


Pulling failed when the AZ puller, jaws a little too wide, slipped and cocked to one side cutting/scraping off a bit of the "tit" on one side that was a little small to begin with. Second attempt same procedure even less likely to work.

Why not MacGyver the thing? Leave nut a little loose (cotter pinned of course) and let the violent shaking on braking knock the tapered joint loose. Sometimes feels like the whole front suspension wants to fall off anyway.

How much play/free space should be left between the ball joint nut, and the shoulder of the idler arm bore? How much shaking/braking? Anyone done this and lived to tell about it?