Plugs are already gapped... Tightening is usual 1/4 turn from snug or so.
Torque wrench on the valve cover gasket... yes. The small 3/8" torque wrench. Never the 1/2" one.
I bought Bosch coppers and a set a of valve cover gaskets expecting to change my plugs. Do these plugs require setting the gap and should I also buy new valve cover bolt washers or do these rarely show up bad? Also is it a must to use a Torque wrench and apply a certain force when tightening the new plugs or should a half a turn from snug or so be sufficient.
Last edited by Jehu; 05-23-2007 at 09:59 AM.
1995 540i Manual build 1/95
Plugs are already gapped... Tightening is usual 1/4 turn from snug or so.
Torque wrench on the valve cover gasket... yes. The small 3/8" torque wrench. Never the 1/2" one.
Yea, the valve cover torques are really touchy. You will want to use a good quality 3/8'' whrench and be careful. A little too tight or loose can easily case a leak. As for the plugs, im not a master mechanic, but i used a torque wrench with a spark plug socket just to be safe.
Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
southwest WA
Thanks , what about the cover bolt washer/grommets? Smart to buy a set just to be safe I'd imagine weather any are decayed or i lose one. Would it be unwise to do this outdoors? I understand you should only do the plugs on an Aluminum block when its cool so ideally I'd like to do this where its parked but i'm under trees and there's pollen and all kinds of crap floating around I'd be concerned I'd miss something falling in there and end up with a problem.
1995 540i Manual build 1/95
Cool motor and anti- sieze on the threads.
"The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"
you really used a torque wrench on the spark plugs. I just put some anti-seize past on the plugs and forget about them. I mean how hard can you really put them in untill you know they are tight. Same with the valve cover nuts, i never used a torque wrench on them, then again I only have a 1/2" driver version.
Originally Posted by Alexlind123
I read the plugs all come with an anti sieze compound on the threads anyway. How about the Valve Cover gaskets? Do they require any kind of cement or anything or just slip them on and bolt them down?
1995 540i Manual build 1/95
from http://nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm#tips
Installation Tips
Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage. Before installing the spark plugs, make sure the threads are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, run a thread chaser through the plug opening in the cylinder head. Most plug manufacturers recommend that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head.
Last edited by Jehu; 05-23-2007 at 09:46 AM.
1995 540i Manual build 1/95
I've never heard of someone running a thread chaser were the plugs go, I guess someone could do it, it would just take a while and I've never bought plugs with anti-sieze paste on them. NGK makes no mention of not using anti-sieze paste. http://www.ngkspark.com.au/tech_inde...ch_content.htm
They are the plugs I'm running.
Originally Posted by Jehu