HELP!!!! Trouble with rear subframe bushing!

[e34.535i.sport]

Need a quick response on this one if poss, having serious trouble with a bushing. I started the job at 08:30 and its now 14:40! Still havent got the first bush out, its being difficult... I have removed the rubber mainly from the middle with the part that holds the bolt, but the casing is proving V-difficult to remove - any tips???!!!

[shogun]

Sawzall (reciprocating saw) and a demolition blade work. Otherwise it can be a real 'fun' job... come to think of it, no matter what it is a 'fun' job.

Raise and support the rear quite high and remove the wheels. Remove the pushrod (this is the link from the subframe bushing to the body and is held in place by a 14mm (may be 13mm) bolt and a 17mm (may be 19mm) bolt).
Place a 1/2 inch thick chunk of wood between the body and the subframe and gently jack the subframe onto it to hold it in place so it can't move when you use the Recip saw.
Using a wrecking (demolition) blade and the saw pointing straight up cut through the rubber (there is a thin membrane that is easy to get the blade up and through) and then cut straight towards the outside... at first you will cut the rubber and then the steel. Keep the saw vertical and the bushing will collapse once you cut through the steel. Depending on your blade and bravery it will take 5 to 10 minutes.
I read you use a 2 jaw puller to pull it out at this point but I was able cut lots of rubber and through the case in two places and then hammer/Vise Grip it out in two pieces.
I used Never-Seez on the outside of the new bushing so it would be easier next time but in retrospect recommend diluted dish soap or cable pulling compound as a lubricant. I also applied Lubricant to the inside of the subframe.
Remove the jack and wood. I then jacked the new bushing into place.
I had to let the car drop onto it since the floor jack wasn't high enough. On one side I used the other new bushing to press it into place and on the last I fashioned a bit of 2x4... it went in quite easy.
Start to finish about an hour and a half.
No issues after almost a year.
The Meyle parts are far superior to the originals... way more rubber.

[Russell]

Would a cheap "sawzall" like a Ryobi 6.5 amp model work?

[Robert K]

When I changed mine out a few months back, I never used a sawzall. I didn't like the idea of possibly cutting into the subframe. To get mine out, I actually took a piece of wood about 2" thick and used a bandsaw to cut it to the same outside diameter as the bushing. After taking the bracket off, I put the nut back on the large bolt and drove it up into the car. Then, using a jack, I lowered the side of the subframe I was working on. When it was down sufficiently, I put the wood piece between the car frame and the bushing. Then, I used an industrial heat gun to heat up the the subframe area that contained the bushing. Once I had it sufficiently heated, I started jacking the subframe up, which caused the wood block to start pushing the bushing out. Squeezed it right out! Before doing all of the above, I put the new bushings in the freezer overnight to harden them up. I made sure the subframe bore was nice and clean and then lubricated the new bushing with water. I then heated the subframe bore back up with the heat gun. Once it was hot, I quickly positioned the bushing in the bore and used the jack to push it into place. I believe I had to put a piece of wood between the subframe and the frame to keep from crushing brake lines or wiring or something. The new bushings pushed right into place until about the last inch or so. I then had to pause, reheat the subframe with the heat gun and it slid in until it seated.

If you've removed the rubber core, you'll probably have to use a saw or something similar to remove the metal sleeve. If the other bushing isn't totally shot, you might try the method I describe above for the other side. Also, I would not suggest lubricating the new bushings with anything other than water. My understanding is that friction holds them in place. I've read of people using dishwashing soap to lubricate them, only to have them move around in the subframe bore later when the car was driven. You don't want that! I hope you get the job done. It's not the easiest thing in the world to do, but it can be done by a do-it-yourselfer. Also, be very careful while doing the work. Make sure the car is well supported before crawling around underneath it.

Grace and peace,

Robert K
1991 535i

[Tiger]

Any sawzall is the same thing. New blade and plenty of new blades makes all the difference in cutting anything off. Stock up on cheapo HarborFreight blades... especially when they are on sale.

[e34.535i.sport]

sawzall method - removed the middle and most of the rubber already. Ive even managed to peel a lot of the rim on the bottom back, but its still not wanting to come out. I spent 12 hours yesteday sawing it with a powerful saw and pulling on it but no joy. It should be coming out really as ive broke through in a few places with the saw and peeled it back off the subframe with a screwdriver at the bottom where the lip is. I haven't got one of these industrial heaters is there a safe alternative?

Getting back under the car tonight straight after work, its a personal vendetta now and i dont quit!

Any help much appreciated.

[Tiger]

Paint heat gun at Home Depot or Lowes are enough... 1500 watt will really cook anything.

[e34.535i.sport]

I managed to remove the old bush (14hrs of hard labour done the trick) earlier, to find i hadn't but all the way through the bush - hence having to pull REALLY HARD to get it out!

Im trying to get the new one in now and there's about and inch to go, but its not moved for some time. Any hints or tips?

All help recieved so far really appreciated.

[slupregime]

well take a 4x4 &cut it down...then drill out about an inch deep in the center and pressit up and then take a pry bar and put it on the top and pry down and it should go down all the way

[e34.535i.sport]

Thanks all, finally in there. Freezer method is ESSENTIAL!