Should I just leave my car unlocked

[Kibokojoe]

I have been messing around with my locks all night and am getting no where. With all of these microswitches and actuators ....its a pain in the back side. I hear BMW changed the design after one year. I now see why. There has to be a logicial way of testing these doors one at a time.

[Qube]

What's wrong? Lock unlock syndrome?

[Paul in NZ]

could also be a short circuit in the wiring which is tied to the LH boot hinge.If there is a short in the wiring which goes to the boot or petrol flap actuatoers it can cause lock unlock syndrome(or unlock lock)Any one of the actuators can also cause this.The culprit is the door which remain s locked(or unlocked when all the others are unlocked(or locked)

[JerseySi]

What he^ said

BMW definately changed the locking system - at least once..
My white car (June '88, a very early E34) doesn't have any deadlocking, just standard central locking like you'd find on a 'normal' car..
My blue car (Dec '88) has deadlocks..
Typically, both cars have 2 (different) doors that won't work with the key..
Anyone know if the actuators etc will be the same?

[/Mild hijack over ]

[genphreak]

What he^ said

BMW definately changed the locking system - at least once..
My white car (June '88, a very early E34) doesn't have any deadlocking, just standard central locking like you'd find on a 'normal' car..
My blue car (Dec '88) has deadlocks..
Typically, both cars have 2 (different) doors that won't work with the key..
Anyone know if the actuators etc will be the same?

[/Mild hijack over ]

NFI, suggest you try one. However there is nothing wrong with BMW power lock designs. The boot/trunk harness wearing behind the hinge was a **major** problem though

[Kibokojoe]

I think this maybe the problem. I have seen the actuator jump back and forth with only one turning of the key. Is it possible to deactivate the actuators and just lock the car by hand?

[JerseySi]

Yes.. Has been a while since I did it, so can't remember of top of my head exactly how..
But I had to do it to my white one - f/l door wouldn't lock, r/l door wouldn't unlock.. Disconnected the actuators, and now both left doors can be locked & unlocked by hand and the rest of the central locking is ok..
(Will get around to putting the good ones I have in soon, now the weather is improving!)

[angusbn]

Just crack open the door liner and disconnect the pivot on the top of the actuator from the steel wire. You'll need to remove the two screws on the inside of the actuator to be able to disconnect things. The rest of the locking system works fine. Double check that your actuator rubber book isn't crack allowing water to seep in - that was my problem.

[Kibokojoe]

Most of the grommets in the door lock and handle were either gone or wore out. I made new grommets on the lathe using delrin. These should last 100 years. I also found that the rear driverside actuator is toast. Took it apart and it is a solid ball of rust. No saving this one. I am now looking for another actuator.

Just crack open the door liner and disconnect the pivot on the top of the actuator from the steel wire. You'll need to remove the two screws on the inside of the actuator to be able to disconnect things. The rest of the locking system works fine. Double check that your actuator rubber book isn't crack allowing water to seep in - that was my problem.