removing the m30b35 head tommorow for a headgasket change

[632 Regal]

should work unless the gasket is very hard and stuck, then I would use a sharp chisel working it very carefully. When done clean the surface well with some harsh chemical to remove any other residual gasket and oil.

MAKE SURE THE BOLT HOLES ARE SPARKLY CLEAN AND NO OIL OR ANTIFREEZE!!!

Also how do I prepare the block. I was going to get the gasket debris off with a razor, will this be good enough?

[genphreak]

Also how do I prepare the block. I was going to get the gasket debris off with a razor, will this be good enough?

My guess would be yes, and very fine emery paper after that- with it all masked off that is. Then a go with the mill smooth file, but it's very hard with the block in the car- you'll need to setup a filing cabinet and so on beside the fender to lie on so you don't screw up your back and can get the job done properly. Did you get the files btw?

[Ferret]

When I did it, a razor got most of the crap off...

I then used very fine abrasive paper to bring the mating surfaces back up to a matte shine.

[BigKriss]

Thanks Jeff, I've already put a rag in the bolt holes to remove most of the oil. I will then blow some compressed air in there to clean them again and then get a tap and die set on the bolt holes for the block and head. What harsh chemical do you suggest? I've sprayed some wd-40 onto the cylinder bores also to prevent rust occurring.

[Jeff N.]

Clean the bolt holes out with some long cotton swabs. Rags are no good and the goop may be too thick for compressed air. You are on the right path with the tap to chase out the threads...

[BigKriss]

Thankyou for everyone's comments so far. The head is still at the machine shop. This is how the timing chain was stuck together with coat hanger wire.


I have two more questions.

1. What product do I use to ensure the gaskets stick onto the mating surface. I assume I don't you use anything for the headgasket but I bought a Reinz headgasket kit and such gaskets such as the intake manifold gasket, what do I use to ensure that they stick?

2. There was a little bit of material missing from the block, I assume coolant was disappearing from here. Will this matter?

[Bill R.]

Kris, back on the block prep. I would clean out all the threaded holes as Jeff N. suggested with long q tips or swabs and a tap and i would carefully use a gasket scraper or putty knife on the block to remove all the old material, then take a mill smooth, not a flat bastard file but a mill smooth file and lay it absolutely flat on top of the block and push it lightly across the block. It will highlight any areas sticking up such as around all the bolt holes.

The threads pull up around bolt holes and leave a slightly raised area. You want to use your mill smooth file to very carefully dress those down and any other high spots or nicks in the surface. That area that is eroded away doesn't look good , I would clean all that up with scraper and file and then use some JB weld to repair the damaged area, let it set up and use your mill smooth file to flatten it back out. After cleaning the head bolts lightly oil the threads and the shoulder of the bolts before installing the head. Lightly.
For gasket sealer, i'm not certain what brands and types are available in Aus. but for the intake gaskets anything like permatex high tack should work fine, or hylomar but its not quite as sticky as hightack

Thankyou for everyone's comments so far. The head is still at the machine shop. This is how the timing chain was stuck together with coat hanger wire.


I have two more questions.

1. What product do I use to ensure the gaskets stick onto the mating surface. I assume I don't you use anything for the headgasket but I bought a Reinz headgasket kit and such gaskets such as the intake manifold gasket, what do I use to ensure that they stick?

2. There was a little bit of material missing from the block, I assume coolant was disappearing from here. Will this matter?

[BigKriss]

Thanks for your comments Bill. The shop were I normally take the car to suggested not to use a smooth file to prep the block at all. They said they never do it and have never done it before. They also said file shavings and such would get into the cylinder bores. I note you say to push it lightly across the surface though and I will do what you tell me to. They would not lend me the smooth file because of this either, but I did borrow the tap and die from them. smooth files are not that easy to get so far, bastard files are common but not the smooth ones.

For gasket sealer I bought three types;

• hyolmar for the head and valve cover and intake manifold gaskets;
• ultra blue for the timing chain gasket
• maniseal for the exhaust manifold gaskets

Its going to take at least one more week now since shops are closed for the next four days over the easter break.

Kris, back on the block prep. I would clean out all the threaded holes as Jeff N. suggested with long q tips or swabs and a tap and i would carefully use a gasket scraper or putty knife on the block to remove all the old material, then take a mill smooth, not a flat bastard file but a mill smooth file and lay it absolutely flat on top of the block and push it lightly across the block. It will highlight any areas sticking up such as around all the bolt holes.

The threads pull up around bolt holes and leave a slightly raised area. You want to use your mill smooth file to very carefully dress those down and any other high spots or nicks in the surface. That area that is eroded away doesn't look good , I would clean all that up with scraper and file and then use some JB weld to repair the damaged area, let it set up and use your mill smooth file to flatten it back out. After cleaning the head bolts lightly oil the threads and the shoulder of the bolts before installing the head. Lightly.
For gasket sealer, i'm not certain what brands and types are available in Aus. but for the intake gaskets anything like permatex high tack should work fine, or hylomar but its not quite as sticky as hightack

[Zeuk in Oz]

Kriss,
When I did my head gasket, much to the horror of every mechanic I spoke to about it, I cleaned the carbon off the tops of the pistons.
I was careful not to get any into the block but made sure by putting vaseline inside the top of each cylinder as I worked on it, which caught anything that I missed, before it had a chance to get down next to the pistons.
I then collected it by wiping off the vaseline.
I can't remember who recommended it, but it was someone on this forum.
All the professional mechanics said I would be doing it all again after 5,000 km, but so far, touch wood, everything seems OK after 30,000 km.
Keep up the good work !

I used a thinner as a cleaning solvent on the head before fitting the new gasket.

I also found cotton buds great for cleaning out the bolt holes.

[BigKriss]

Thankyou Bo. I'm not touching the tops of the pistons either. I was told not to touch it because I would be blowing smoke? - can't remember if this was the exact reason - and was recommended not to touch them. I have two different thickness of sandpaper to prepare the block also. Yes I will use cotton buds and I have sweker sticks also.

Kriss,
When I did my head gasket, much to the horror of every mechanic I spoke to about it, I cleaned the carbon off the tops of the pistons.
I was careful not to get any into the block but made sure by putting vaseline inside the top of each cylinder as I worked on it, which caught anything that I missed, before it had a chance to get down next to the pistons.
I then collected it by wiping off the vaseline.
I can't remember who recommended it, but it was someone on this forum.
All the professional mechanics said I would be doing it all again after 5,000 km, but so far, touch wood, everything seems OK after 30,000 km.
Keep up the good work !

I used a thinner as a cleaning solvent on the head before fitting the new gasket.

I also found cotton buds great for cleaning out the bolt holes.