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Thread: removing the m30b35 head tommorow for a headgasket change

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Sydney Oz
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    251

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    It won't be a problem getting it off
    It may be if they used studs last time round instead of head bolts. Check the block for cracks - a common problem with them if people take the head off and then don't blow the oil out of the bolt holes - they then hydaulic and crack the block.

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  2. #12
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    Sometimes you can smell coolant from a leak you don't notice. Thought I had a bad heater core because I would get that sweet smell on occasion... turned out my radiator was leaking from the side seal and I didn't notice it till it got worse.

    Big relief, you can imagine... Radiator is a lot easier to change out than a heater core.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
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    438

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    Hi Kris,

    You could possibly have a crack inside one of the valve pockets (inlet or exhaust ports) down behind a valve, it would leak when hot but not when cold..... Repeated over heats will do that (my E12 M535 went that way...).

    Good luck Mate!
    BMW parts professional

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  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    I don't know what's going on. I've had no problems in the last few days since I've changed the coolant lines. they old ones all looked okay but nothing (no overheating) has happened since. I've just been doing short runs less then 25mins and 15kms though.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    4,374

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigKriss
    I don't know what's going on. I've had no problems in the last few days since I've changed the coolant lines. they old ones all looked okay but nothing (no overheating) has happened since. I've just been doing short runs less then 25mins and 15kms though.
    Another attack of the deadly pin-hole-itis Kris? Pin holes in hoses and rough connections can do weird things.... its great news that your head is okay- your motor should be pretty solid- the car has been well looked after after all!

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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    You should use a machinists straight edge to check for warpage. A couple thou maybe 4 or 5 is ok. If it's high in the center the staight edge will rock if low you will see light, use a feeler gauge to check the amount.
    Check side to side and lengthwise in several places.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    I put in 2.5 hours today. Where is the drain plug for the block? I've never done it before. I think I have to access it underneath the car, but I couldn't find it.

    work so far;



    Does the metal thing that attaches to the rotor have to be removed?

    This is what I'm not sure about.......


    On front jack stands

    I'll probably need another 4-5 hours before it's off. I'm going to replace the centre bearing after I remove the exhaust also.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
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    1,447

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    the drain plug is under the 2nd rear most cylinder. and you'll need to take out the heat shields if its anything like the m50. you'll need a stumpy spanner also.

    Germans: Why can't they make everything?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    About 8 more hours so far;
    I had trouble with the downpipe bolts after the exhaust manifold but they eventually came off. I removed the exhaust and the drive shaft. The center bearing was broken.



    One of the exhaust manifold won't come off. Everything is unbolted. I tried to wedge a fairly think screwdriver in there to no avail. Any help guys?


  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    130

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    Stuck exhaust manifold - try to jar it loose - use a length of wood against the manifold. Hit the wood with a hammer, try a few places. Don't hit the manifold with the hammer.

    Bill G Melb Aus

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