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Thread: How hard is it to remove and replace the head on an m50

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    1,447

    Default How hard is it to remove and replace the head on an m50

    Well I hear that replacing the head on a SOHC such as an m20 or m30 isn't that difficult because setting the timing can be fairly straight forward. Now I am thinking of perhaps reconditioning the head on my m50 at some stage. Is it a difficult job and do i need any special tools for setting up the timing.

    I do have access to some extremely knowledgeable mechanics through my work as well as their tools so it shouldn't be too intimidating. I've always wanted to get into this stuff and now with the winter approaching here (read it will not be 40 degrees celsius during most of the day at work) might be a good time to do it.

    I suppose the part that I am most unsure about is setting the timing for the DOHC after putting the head back on. What techniques are used for this?

    Germans: Why can't they make everything?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Dubai
    Posts
    834

    Default

    do you have the Bentley.5er manual? it has everything in it. they explained everything about setting the timing and removal/installation..etc

    Edit: it would take you around 1 - 2 days if you're alone and one whole day if you have a partner with the proper tools. that's if you will remove the whole head system and replace the valve seals.
    Last edited by grave77; 01-29-2007 at 06:39 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default

    Prior to the M50, I had never had the head off of a DOHC engine. I thought it would be a bit tougher than it was. No worries, if you follow the bentley, you'll have no problem.

    In terms of tools:

    you can either buy a 'cheap' $40 cam alignment tool or just use a straight edge to line things up.

    Bentleys mentions a secondary chain guide tool, but two safety pins work plenty fine

    In order to remove smaller head bolts from the timing cover area, you'll need to modify a torx socket (grind it down to fit into a deep hole).

    Otherwise, nothing to special needed.

    The trick (if there is one) is not the cam alignment per say, but setting up the bolts in the cam sprockets. There is quite a bit written on this subject and I know I have a post with plenty of pics out there which details this procedure.

    In a nutshell, go for it, you'll enjoy it.

    Dave M

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    Prior to the M50, I had never had the head off of a DOHC engine. I thought it would be a bit tougher than it was. No worries, if you follow the bentley, you'll have no problem.

    In terms of tools:

    you can either buy a 'cheap' $40 cam alignment tool or just use a straight edge to line things up.

    Bentleys mentions a secondary chain guide tool, but two safety pins work plenty fine

    In order to remove smaller head bolts from the timing cover area, you'll need to modify a torx socket (grind it down to fit into a deep hole).

    Otherwise, nothing to special needed.

    The trick (if there is one) is not the cam alignment per say, but setting up the bolts in the cam sprockets. There is quite a bit written on this subject and I know I have a post with plenty of pics out there which details this procedure.

    In a nutshell, go for it, you'll enjoy it.

    Dave M
    thanks, for the record i have a bentley, but things can turn out different than what the bentley says sometimes.

    Germans: Why can't they make everything?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    108

    Default

    You'll need a cam alignment tool.

    It wasn't too bad when I did mine. If I totaled up the total days of work, came to 8 days. And I didnt disconnect the header. Just Lock the Flywheel and the rest is a breeze. As for your cams, make sure that you have the 4 dots on the cams facing up and your at TDC. I made a cam alignment tool with a piece of 1/8 steel plate about 10 inches long and 6 inches high. The cam height is the same as the outer lip of the head. Most things are 10 or 11mm. Make sure you replace your head bolts. And If you can get the Victor Reinz gasket set.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fogtown
    Posts
    656

    Default

    You can always do it the "ghetto" way by using a ruler - worked for me. Set the bottom to TDC using the mark on the wheel on the front of the engine. Set the top by using a straight edge. As you move each cam you will see the angle between the ruler and the cam block dissapear. Just make sure your valves on cylinder one are pointing in the same direction.
    FS: PBR Deluxe rear brake pads [new]

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    108

    Default

    I almost forgot. You can make a flywheel lock out of an old 3/8ths drive extention. Put it on the grinder and take about 3/32nds of an inch off the square drive. Or you can use a 5/16ths diameter bolt.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Englewood NJ
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I'd absolutely use the Cam Locks! If the car is a Non-VANOS car, then it is much simpler and easier to do than with a VANOS car. VANOS equipped cars require a few more special tools.. get the VANOS timing wrong and you can damage the engine.

    Bill

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    1,853

    Default

    Bah the three I've done on non-vanos M50s didnt need more than a straight edged steel ruler and a bit of patience

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Midlothian, Texas
    Posts
    133

    Default I'm just finishing reassembly of mine after having a crack in the head repaired

    The Bentley is very good for disassembly. Reassembly is a little trickier since they guide you to just after setting the VANOS timing and then give the ol "assembly is the reverse of disassembly".

    One thing I did was take digital pictures at every step as I took it all apart so I would have a handy reference on putting it back the way it was. I didn't use any of the special tools and I found that there is a four pack of torx sockets available at Autozone for about $8 that covers everything you'll need for the job.
    Mark Hall
    '95 525iA EAT chipped (just one now )
    '98 528iA

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