Clever way to pull M30 head??

[Dash01]

If I had this to do again, I'd still use the 2x6 board trick, as described above, but would leave the exhaust manifolds on, too, or at least put them on before re-installing the head. (Ex. manifold studs are difficult to reach and properly torque once the head is in place on the block--not much room to work. Off the car, this is easy, but makes positioning the assembled head/manifolds more difficult.) BTW, install and index the spark plugs and oil pressure sender while the head is still on the bench--easier.

I'd also use a couple of ~4-6" lengths of 1/2" dowel rod inserted in a couple of head bolt holes, as temporary alignment pins for re-installation of the head. This would keep the head and HG in place and from sliding around until the head bolts are installed.

[Robin-535im]

I'd also use a couple of ~4-6" lengths of 1/2" dowel rod inserted in a couple of head bolt holes, as temporary alignment pins for re-installation of the head. This would keep the head and HG in place and from sliding around until the head bolts are installed.

Thanks guys for all the great suggestions. This board is a valuable resource for sure.

Harbor Freight had a 2-ton hoist for $180 with a 2/year replace-it-for-any-reason warranty. Since this is my first time I figured I'd take it slow and use some mechanical assistance... and considering I have to do all my work between 10:00PM and bedtime, getting help is less of an option. Plus, considering the Harbor Freight hydraulics go kaput after 1.5 years, a 2-year warranty looked really good.

Bought the lift and got the head out. Installing the manifolds to put it back in should be easier now too. It wasn't *that* heavy but without having seen how it all goes together it would have been risky to heft it out manually. Plus, I just had the fender resprayed so I'm certain it would get scratched if I gave it half a chance (still might, have to put it back in).

Seemed like a lot of carbon buildup on the pistons, more than I expected at 70k miles on the engine. Valves look fine to me, but I'll have to read up (or ask here) on a good way to clean it all up and check the valves for wear and tear.

Thanks again for the replies.

[grave77]

shouldn't be that hard .. I lifted it with a partner without removing the hood. you need a wooden log with a hammer to make the head get off the old gasket then it's ready to be lifted. I made my friend help me to hold it then I carried it alone to the bench.

[Ferret]

It's not that heavy!

Someone needs to go to the gym

Question though: Which is heavier... M30 head or M50 head?

[Ross]

How about holding that head out at arms length while saying that?

[Ferret]

How about holding that head out at arms length while saying that?

Haha, I cant keep hold of it unless I'm holding it by an end or have it wedged in my stomach

They /are/ heavy but not unliftable. I'd only say they weighed the same as the miniframes I work with at work.

[Dash01]

How about holding that head out at arms length while saying that?

That's why I used the dead-tiger-hanging-from-a-pole-carried-by-native-porters trick, plus the two 2x6s laid across the engine bay: Lift with the pole and rope tied to the head (the far end of the pole resting on the far fender lip, the near end on your shoulder), then slip the 2x6s underneath, then slide the head over the 2x6s to the fender, then lift by hand and take it to the machinist for rebuilding.

The head weighs less than 80 lbs. or so, with manifolds attached. The far end of the pole holds ~1/2 that weight, so we're not talking about a major hernia here.

[Ferret]

That's why I used the dead-tiger-hanging-from-a-pole-carried-by-native-porters trick

Lmao, what brilliant imagery.

[Dash01]

Lmao, what brilliant imagery.

Glad you liked it. Worked great for me, with far less time, expense, and trouble than going to a rental place and dragging home a hoist. Actually, quicker than even calling Harbor Freight with credit card to order their hoist, which would then take days to arrive, plus time to set up and then store afterward.

If you have a garage, carport, or tree handy, you could also rig a rope and pulley for a hoist.

And, you'd probably would like my $5 crankshaft securing device, used to hold the crankshaft while removing the big 36mm nut on the timing chain sprocket.

You may also appreciate my breaker bar torque wrench used to retighten said nut on re-assembly. This involves a long breaker bar, a ~36mm socket, a bathroom scale, and simple arithmatic.

[grave77]

sure it's M50 it has 2 cams "DOHC" also M50 heads are thicker