::.. Definitive Subframe Insert/Plate Install Thread

[Qube]

EDIT: If someone can tell me the size of the two small bolts it would be perfect!

Is your rear end flailing more than you'd like? If so, take a few dollars out of your wallet and grab a pair of these...

RacingKing.ca Subframe Plates:
http://www.racingking.ca/Canada/Scri...?idproduct=693

The install is 'butt' simple and 'should' take no more than 15 minutes of even the clumsiest people. The primary install is here:

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrad...ame_plates.htm

After spending a lot of time with my E34 on the racetrack, we realised that even with thicker sway bars, the rear of the car was still showing a lot of body roll. The facts are that the subframe bushings are flexing a lot. The addition of a delrin plate under the bushing removes a lot of the flex allowing the BMW E34 to be more responsive on the road.

Procedure:
Socket set with 22mm

1. Remove the 3 bolts holding the subframe bushing plate. You don't need to jack up the car to do this.
2. Install the bushing inserts on the plate and place the plate back in place.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten the bolts. Take the car for a test drive.

Of course, I'd like to go into much more detail for those that have never lifted a wrench before, but still would like to tighten up their 'rear end'.

I'd like to offer modified instructions here:

Procedure:
Socket set with 22mm and XXmm, plus extensions for leverage

1. Remove the 3 bolts holding the subframe bushing plate. You don't need to jack up the car to do this, unless your car is lowered and you can't see what the heck you're doing.
2. Install the bushing inserts on the plate you removed (you don't need to remove the bushing) and place the plate back in place.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten the bolts but don't over-torque!. Take the car for a test drive.

Having said that, a picture says a thousand words...

Jack up the car as needed to see what's going on. Note that your jack point blocks access to the two small bolts so be smart about it Also, SAFETY FIRST! Although you don't need to jack in most cases (ground controls, anyone?), do ensure that you have the front wheels blocked before attempting this. The only reason I lifted so high was for pictures. Note the spare wheel underneath in addition to the blocking.



This is where the plate is fastened.



Note the two small XXmm bolts and one 22mm nut.

[Qube]

If yours is as troublesome as mine were, you'll need to get some additional leverage. I used two extensions. The extensions are 'connected' by way of a 1/2" socket. You can use whatever works for you.



Once the bolts and nut are out, this is what you'll get.



Just put the insert between plate and the bushing (which probably didn't come out with the plate).



You're done! Feel the power of the Racing King!



====================
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS:

Bill R:
If i could note a couple of things for those who don't work on cars for a living. If you're going to use a cheesy little floor jack like that and put it in that direction, MAKE sure that you block the front wheels so they can't roll. Those small jacks like that have the wheels close together and if the car rolls and the jack is sideways like that it will tip the jack over. So if you're jack resembles that make sure you block the front wheels before lifting the back. Also if your bolts and nuts look anywhere as rusted as these do in this pic, do yourself a favor and spray them with PBblaster an hour or so before you start the job to prevent any bolts from snapping/seizing/stripping.

[632 Regal]

cool write up!

[Russell]

Did it 18 monghs ago. Made a big improvement in controlling vertical movement of the rear. However, I think there is still some laterial/horizontial movement. I just may spring for replacing sub frame mounts and rear struts and be done. Already done dogbones.

BTW, the underneath of my car seemed be much more rust free with less crud. Guess 6 years difference in age makes a big difference.

[Macv]

Very nice, I'll look into that.

[Kobe Diesel]

Was able to install without lifting the car, otherwise very good write-up.

I see you painted the original "side skirts". Looking to do the same rather than pay $250 for a set. Where did you get those wheels?

[Bill R.]

work on cars for a living. If you're going to use a cheesy little floor jack like that and put it in that direction, MAKE sure that you block the front wheels so they can't roll. Those small jacks like that have the wheels close together and if the car rolls and the jack is sideways like that it will tip the jack over. So if you're jack resembles that make sure you block the front wheels before lifting the back. Also if your bolts and nuts look anywhere as rusted as these do in this pic, do yourself a favor and spray them with PBblaster an hour or so before you start the job to prevent any bolts from snapping/seizing/stripping.

EDIT: If someone can tell me the size of the two small bolts it would be perfect!

Is your rear end flailing more than you'd like? If so, take a few dollars out of your wallet and grab a pair of these...

RacingKing.ca Subframe Plates:
http://www.racingking.ca/Canada/Scri...?idproduct=693

The install is 'butt' simple and 'should' take no more than 15 minutes of even the clumsiest people. The primary install is here:

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrad...ame_plates.htm




Of course, I'd like to go into much more detail for those that have never lifted a wrench before, but still would like to tighten up their 'rear end'.

I'd like to offer modified instructions here:

Procedure:
Socket set with 22mm and XXmm, plus extensions for leverage

1. Remove the 3 bolts holding the subframe bushing plate. You don't need to jack up the car to do this, unless your car is lowered and you can't see what the heck you're doing.
2. Install the bushing inserts on the plate you removed (you don't need to remove the bushing) and place the plate back in place.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten the bolts but don't over-torque!. Take the car for a test drive.

Having said that, a picture says a thousand words...

Jack up the car as needed to see what's going on. Note that your jack point blocks access to the two small bolts so be smart about it



This is where the plate is fastened.



Note the two small XXmm bolts and one 22mm nut.

[Russell]

great advice.

[Macv]

Indeed, good advice. Where can I pick up a lift like yours Qube? I have larger ones but could use a smaller one like pictured above.

[Qube]

Indeed, good advice. Where can I pick up a lift like yours Qube? I have larger ones but could use a smaller one like pictured above.

I inherieted it. The build date on that is 1989 and cost $44 CAD back then It's from Canadian Tire.


------------------------------



If you're going to use a cheesy little floor jack like that and put it in that direction, MAKE sure that you block the front wheels so they can't roll.

Did so, and tires as shown so they don't flatten me when I peek underneath

Those small jacks like that have the wheels close together and if the car rolls and the jack is sideways like that it will tip the jack over. So if you're jack resembles that make sure you block the front wheels before lifting the back. Also if your bolts and nuts look anywhere as rusted as these do in this pic, do yourself a favor and spray them with PBblaster an hour or so before you start the job to prevent any bolts from snapping/seizing/stripping.

PB basically ANYTHING you work on, when it's a car this age. Thanks! I'll add those in.