Somebody Use No Lifetime Atf

[632 Regal]

But I feel that changing 3 quarts or so at a time is better than none at all and also better than changing all of it at once because of the deposit clogging issues. If I had one of those 5hp22 trannies (I think) I wouldnt be afraid of changing the filter a few times till the fluid was cleaner. Have to drive at least 1000-1500 miles between changes as to not upset everything at once. What I read was lifetime meant 80-100k not 200k.

Im glad my trans (5hp18) takes the dextron III its cheaper but the trans is weaker so I will have to hold back on the Nitro Methanol at the track for now. Not to mention how small the ring and pinion setup is on these non-540 vehicles, no trans brake either.

[NoSpeedLimits]

For what it's worth, when I had gone to the local stealer to discuss the trans fluid change, the mechanic (not the appointment scheduler) confirmed exactly what you guys are saying.

Hay I8apex, question for ya, since you take your car to the track I figured you ought to know the answer to my silly question: with the traction control turned off, heading in a straight line, from a stand still, pedal to the floor take off, is it possible to spin the rear wheels? TIA. Other input welcomed... I fear that something is wrong... I would have thought that the V8 would require some feathering of the throttle at take off.

BTW. I was also wondering if anyone could provide me with the weight of a 94 540ia?

[Unregistered]

OK thanx for all information, I'll change the trans fluid now with lifetime, I thing I'll sped more money now but same a lot later, did somebody change it, how many qtrs I need. My trans is 5HP 30, the dealer said just sale this fluid in 5 qtrs can, at $140.00

[l8apex]

The volume available and price sound about right.
The official word from the manual....

1. After draining, with the engine stopped, add oil to the transmission until it overflows.
2. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Place the selector lever in
Park position and start the engine.
3. Follow the fluid level checking procedure as described under step A.
Notes on fluid level checking and adding transmission oil:
• All lifetime use oils (Shell LA 2634, Esso ATF LT 71141, Texaco
ETL 7045, Texaco ETL 8072 B) are to be collected in a clean
container and reused.
• It is preferred to check the transmission fluid level at 30°C, this way
the transmission will hold extra oil versus topping off at 50°C.
• If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level
checking procedure, the resulting oil level will be too low.
• Have necessary equipment, oil pump and transmission fluid available
before starting the fluid level checking procedure.


1. The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before
checking fluid level can begin. Use the DIS or the MODIC to determine the
transmission temperature.
2. The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running,
switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and
ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
3. Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the
selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
4. With the engine running and the selector lever in Park position, remove
the filler plug ¡ located on the transmission (see picture for location).
If a small stream of oil runs out, the fluid level is correct.
5. If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too
low. Add oil until it starts to overflow.
6. With the engine running, reinstall the oil filler plug.

[Bill R.]

Here's Jaggi


Here's Peter Schmid

OK thanx for all information, I'll change the trans fluid now with lifetime, I thing I'll sped more money now but same a lot later, did somebody change it, how many qtrs I need. My trans is 5HP 30, the dealer said just sale this fluid in 5 qtrs can, at $140.00

[Drooby]

BTW. I was also wondering if anyone could provide me with the weight of a 94 540ia?

1994 540i
Curb Weight 3,804


Gross Vehicle Weight 3,804

[l8apex]

I understand your concern. I would not expect to be able to "burn rubber" doing a "convertor dump" with a stock 540. Obviously, traction control will prevent wheel spin if it's on, however this has nothng to do with traction control being on or off. It also doesn't have much of anything to do with whether you have a limited slip differential or not, although an open diff will tend to cause spinning on one side or the other, depending on which tire has more traction. The problem is also not because the engine makes insufficient power, or that the power losses in the driveline are excessive.
It's a simple matter of the differential being geared too high (numerically low) to be able to put the power down. The 540iA comes with a 2.93:1 diff ratio, which is ridiculously high. I'm sure that this was done deliberately in order to improve fuel economy and to help it to cruise at highway speeds at a low RPM. It was designed as a "luxo-rod" after all....
With this gearing, the car is theoretically capable of a ridiculous top speed of over 200mph. I don't know if it can attain this speed or not, but I'm sure that it would require a VERY long, level course. The car is able to perform well with such a high gear because it has plenty of low-end torque, it just can't overcome the gearing to break the tires loose and spin them.
I am able to break my tires loose ;o)
I installed a 3.46:1 gearset with a Quaiffe automatic torque biasing unit.
Before the Quaiffe unit, my rear tires regularly wore much less than my front tires. Now I'm able to wear both front and rear tires out equally fast!

[Unregistered]

Any thoughts on use of Redline? This for a 1990 535i.

[Bill R.]

economy, I would agree with you to some extent, but by the same token the manufacturer doesn't want wheel spin to occur for good reason. So gear ratios, tire size and horsepower are carefully matched up to prevent this from occuring. Traction control devices i think are intended to limit slippage under undesirable conditions such as ice snow poor traction surfaces, but the choice of wheel, tire, diff ratio, torque converter stall speeds etc are done to avoid tirespin... I know this is obvious to you but it may not be to some of the others... fast cars don't spin the tires..

I understand your concern. I would not expect to be able to "burn rubber" doing a "convertor dump" with a stock 540. Obviously, traction control will prevent wheel spin if it's on, however this has nothng to do with traction control being on or off. It also doesn't have much of anything to do with whether you have a limited slip differential or not, although an open diff will tend to cause spinning on one side or the other, depending on which tire has more traction. The problem is also not because the engine makes insufficient power, or that the power losses in the driveline are excessive.
It's a simple matter of the differential being geared too high (numerically low) to be able to put the power down. The 540iA comes with a 2.93:1 diff ratio, which is ridiculously high. I'm sure that this was done deliberately in order to improve fuel economy and to help it to cruise at highway speeds at a low RPM. It was designed as a "luxo-rod" after all....
With this gearing, the car is theoretically capable of a ridiculous top speed of over 200mph. I don't know if it can attain this speed or not, but I'm sure that it would require a VERY long, level course. The car is able to perform well with such a high gear because it has plenty of low-end torque, it just can't overcome the gearing to break the tires loose and spin them.
I am able to break my tires loose ;o)
I installed a 3.46:1 gearset with a Quaiffe automatic torque biasing unit.
Before the Quaiffe unit, my rear tires regularly wore much less than my front tires. Now I'm able to wear both front and rear tires out equally fast!

[NoSpeedLimits]

whew, and I thought there was something wrong with my power plant... thanks for clearing the water as for why I want to spin the tires...let just say this aging man is attempting to revisit those childhood days...it's been a while since I had a v8 under the hood.

Soooo, what's it cost to get my hands on a 3.46:1 gearset w/ a Quaiffe automatic torque biasing unit???? cheaper than a new used muscle car