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Thread: Unlocking your E32 in an emergency (battery flat)

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,281

    Default Unlocking your E32 in an emergency (battery flat)

    "Omigod I'm locked out, it's just a 2-ton doorstop!"

    You're locked out and the door don't work right, huh? Usually after leaving the lights on, so there's no power-unlock to the doors too... and if you've got an alarm, the central-unlock is gone too. It's catch-22, can't get the bonnet up to jumpstart without opening the door without jumpstarting the power without getting the bonnet up...

    The main golden rule:

    First, don't panic - there are options
    Calm down.
    The classic, approved method is this:
    If using remote locking, GET THE KEY.
    Go to the PASSENGERS door... the manual override is definitely present there. This procedure should also work on the driver's door too, but it's your choice and one maybe more difficult than the other.
    Put in the key (duh)
    Lift the handle; hold it up now
    Turn the key to the rear of the car; should hit resistance at about 45 degrees
    Carry on turning to 90 degrees - it will be stiff, it's meant ot be. (Stiff does not mean break the key or lock. Your car may have problems or be different - your call).
    at 90 degrees lock pin should pop up
    return key to vertical
    let handle down
    open door as normal
    Other alternatives are based around at least applying 12v to power locks temporarily. This WILL be required to get into the other doors IF YOU LOCKED UP from the drivers door with the "deadlock" feature... then all the other doors are in deadlock "ignore the pin" mode (and possibly the trunk too).
    Suggestions I have seen involve:

    somehow releasing the bonnet catch from the front of the car with a small hook to catch the bowden cable of the hoodlock
    breaking into the boot, then applying a 12v battery across the trunk courtesy light (which will be powered up with the lid up)
    if you KNOW side lights were left on, try to get into one and jumper a battery across it (may not work depending on the state of relays in between it and the battery)
    In all cases it's up to you to get the RIGHT polarity, and work out if the effort/damage/ risk is worth it. Your car, your call.
    After any work.... REMEMBER TO CHECK THE DOOR LOCKS AGAIN AFTER A MANUAL OPEN... you want your car secure, right?

    You can also lock up this way by turning the key to the FRONT of the car 90 degrees if you've lost battery.

    Deadlocking / resynch problems

    The problem with a manually opened lock is that sometimes they refuse to re-lock. They are stuck in manual override mode, and won't re-lock with the rest of the car. The steps I've followed to sort this on my 735 (opened passenger door on override) were to lock the car to deadlock mode with the central locking (eg turn key in drivers' door to 90 degrees rearward) and then override-lock the passengers' door - then try a central-locking unlock of the whole car from the drivers' door - this then had the passengers' door operating as usual and locking/unlocking with the rest of the car.

    Similar problem can happen with the trunk lock from memory - I think it's a variant of the main locks, and it can control the central locking (but not the deadlock feature) too...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Durban, South Africa
    Posts
    398

    Default

    Same way to unlock on E34's as well.

    However I was working on my car, closed doors and deadlocked them from pass side. Took battery out to charge. Closed bonnet, then said, "**** how do I get in?"

    I tried ALL unlocking methods. Trust me, I was there all day tring them!

    So after a lot of head scratching I tried to pull locks up with a wire coat hanger, I just scratched the pillers, obviously this didn't work.
    Even tried the trunk wiring, failed, did not work.

    So then I decided to jack the front of the car up by 2" so I could get under and move and see freely. I got my 12V battery charge, spent 20 - 30 minutes looking for the car's battery cable. Then once found I just connected them and car locked and everything powered right up and unlocked the car normal way.

    I know now I could've just connected it to the starter motor. Didn't know this at the time.
    Car: BMW 525iA.
    Engine: M20.
    Trans: Auto.
    Year: 1990.

    Location: Durban, South Africa.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,281

    Default

    PHP Code:
    I tried to pull locks up with a wire coat hanger 
    Does not work when doors are double locked. Even a person sitting in the car, cannot unlock from inside.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Hi I tried operating using maual instructions on both doors but key turns full 90 degrees either way with only small movement in the pin.I had previously unlocked and locked using manual as battery had been playing up.Any clues??

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
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    Default

    Maybe something unhooked in the system.
    You can try some other things like using another battery and connect it to the cables of the trunk light
    http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/trouble/Locked.htm

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,281

    Default

    to be more precise:

    If the locks won't let you in then open the trunk/boot and connect a charger to the trunk/boot light (this connects to the battery via a single fuse and does not go via the General Module). Connect the -ve lead of the charger to the terminal with the BROWN wire. Ensure that the charger can produce less than 15A or there is a possibility that the 15A fuse will pop. Allow to charge for 15 minutes and your remote should work again.....

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