You might wan to poke around with the Crank Sensor while your at it. This time of year brings all kinds of intake leaks, myself included.
Reboot the computer before you drive it again, sometimes magic can happen :|
Hahah, i brought this on myself by boasting about how amazing the M60 is
I got a CEL driving on the highway today, came after about 20 min driving so well after the engine was fully warmed up. Total loss of power, i couldn't rev it past 2000 anymore, it was losing speed on uphill grades, almost stalling at stop lights, and shaking real bad on idle. It never actually stalled though, but a couple of times it started crawling at like 2 mph, full throttle did nothing. The engine was missing everyhwere, and I heard it knock once, wow that sounded painfulSwitching it off and waiting a few min let me drive home.
I got code 1213 from the stomp test - oxygen sensor 2, 'running too rich', Bentley says check intake leaks. It's weird because otherwise the motor runs so smoothly, it's just missing horribly and erratically.
I took off the engine cover, and sprayed carb cleaner everywhere. Idle didn't change. I really doused everything, frong plate, rear plate, and all around where the manifold looks like it connects to the head, so around the red things that looked like the fuel injectors (?) and everywhere else, and it didn't make any difference. I also had the throttle body gasket replaced last winter, and the shop told me all the others were fine.
Bentley also suggests air flow sensor. I disconnected it and checked for ground on pin 1 and +ve voltage on pin 3 as they say, and both checked fine.
Now I'm stumped. I also ran a quick search on here, and most ppl seem to think it's the oxygen sensor itself. But shouldn't that throw a 1212 code (according to Bentley, 'faulty oxygen sensor')?
I don't like replacing stuff blindly, that's why I ask
Thanks y'all!
Edit: I'm gonna check my records and see if the O2 sensors were changed recently....
You might wan to poke around with the Crank Sensor while your at it. This time of year brings all kinds of intake leaks, myself included.
Reboot the computer before you drive it again, sometimes magic can happen :|
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
something in the fuel injection system could have failed, like the pressure regulator.
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
+1Originally Posted by BillionPa
Check all your sensors voltage. ohms, blah blah blah.
If your FPR is stuck close, then your going to get a lot of gas and run rich. If it is stuck open. then when you get to a stop light the pressure will drop and will cause the car to almost stall. This is from my experiance with the FPR on my Honda, except some retard put a screw in there and made it to where the gas mileage sucked.
95 E34 540i6 M Sport - 94 E34 530iT B40/6 - 92 E34 525i5 M52/OBD2 rip
Trajan, 1213 doesn't mean its too rich, it means the dme has detected excessive variation in the air fuel mixture, beyond what the o2 sensor can measure for a period of greater than 10 seconds.... It can be either rich or lean.
Since its only on one bank ,Cylinders 1-4, i would look at possible vacum leaks on that bank or see if the wiring harness going to the o2 sensor for that bank got damaged somehow. You didn't run over anything?
Since its one bank possible causes can be a stuck injector, low fuel pressure, airflow sensor problem etc.
Originally Posted by Traian
bad coil/plug/water/oil in the plug valley can do that too
Originally Posted by Bill R.
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
The fuel consumption went sky high too. Before the CEL came on and she started limping, the first thing I noticed was that it was using a lot more gas that usual at steady hwy speed.
There is a test in the Bentley for the fuel pressure regulator, I will try that tomorrow.
I'll try a battery restet too, the battery ran down one night a couple of weeks ago when i forgot the dome light on, and after i charged it up the car ran better than before hahaGuessing it's not the crank sensor as the car starts fine, not sure. It starts better after i leave it off for a few min.
The valve cover gasket is leaking a bit, some of the plugs are pretty oily. Should I test the coils somehow too?
One of the O2 sensors was changed at the dealer 50k km ago, the other one I don't know. I wonder why they didn't change both...
Last edited by Traian; 12-02-2006 at 10:27 PM.
EEK!!! they are supposed to be changed in pairs. if both werent........ fix the problem at hand THEN replace them both.
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
Sayz who?... I work on many many cars where only the bad sensor is replaced and they go on for many tens of thousands of miles without a problem. Especially on a lot of late model cars that have 4 sensors at 130 each.
Originally Posted by BillionPa
Check the fuel pump also. My M60 started acting strange, stalling, throwing a CEL and requiring shutdown/restart to limp home. The fuel pump was toast and caused funky air/fuel ratios that will throw CEL's.
'95 540iA ~212k