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Thread: Removing the steering lock

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    191

    Default Removing the steering lock

    Does anyone have knowledge of or a link to instructions to remove the steering lock (Item #2) from the steering cloumn? Better yet, the best way to remove the fracture bolts (Item #11) and the pipe clamp? I've searched Bentley and Haynes (useless piece of dung).



    As always, thanks in advance.

    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
    Posts
    4,243

    Default

    The shear bolts aren't so hard. Use a sharp chisel and bang around the perimeter for a quarter turn or so and they back right out.
    I'm in full agreement on the Haynes books.
    Has anyone else noticed that the replacement locks are exactly the same?
    Every time I start the car with the wheel cocked a bit giving some resistance to turning the key visions of this repair come pouring in.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    191

    Default

    Thanks Ross for the help. Anyone else care to chime in?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    East Brunswick, New Jersey
    Posts
    879

    Default

    I slotted the bolt with the tapered head so I can remove it. The pictures below may not have what you want to look for. I removed the steering column so I can change out the pedal for the 6 speed conversion. If the steering column is removed, everything will be apparent to you. But you don't need to go that far. Loosening it will get what you want.







    '01 540it, 6/01
    '03 325i 5 speed, 9/02
    '10 535ix. 9/09
    '10 mini 6 speed
    '15 mini countryman 6 speed

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    8

    Default

    1995 525 iT 137K miles

    I too, slotted the bolts with a Dremel, which worked really well. I am stuck trying to get the steering lock off of the steering column. It appears that there is a bearing holding the steering lock onto the steering column. I am hesitant to remove the bearing, because it doesn't come out easily. I get it half way out and when I let go, it gets sucked back in....
    I have already removed the battery, key/ignition lock, ignition switch, and turn signals etc...
    Will watch this thread for responses. I am hopoing someone has the experience removing it.
    Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge..
    Pete

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    191

    Default

    There is a snap ring (item 5) that needs to be removed before removing the steering spindle bearing (item 2).


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Ah, yes... I had that half way off last night before I gave up. After the snap ring, is it clear sailing?

    Thanks again!
    PeteAB

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    191

    Default

    Removing the steering lock itself requires a few good pulls. Replacing the snap ring is a bigger pain in the arse than replacing the steering lock. You will need something to pull the steering column out enough to replace the snap ring. The spring (item 7) in my previous post, will pull the steering column down slightly. I used a pry bar to pull and hold the column out enough to replace the snap ring.

    Last edited by dternst; 12-13-2006 at 01:18 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    8

    Default Great help!

    Great... That helps out greatly....
    Thanks again!

    By the way, I could not find anything in the archives explaining what we just discussed. I would imagine you are now the know-all guru for this project....

    Regards,
    Pete

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    485

    Default

    On the '90 E34 at least, you can remove the st. lock assy. without removing the steering column. Use a Dremel with cutoff disk to cut the mild steel guard pieces above the cast st. lock housing, then slot the shear bolt for removal with a flat-blade screwdriver.

    If the st. lock is stiff or jamming, it may be because of a broken alu. pin that is jamming the internal groove. You can inspect this with a flashlight and dental mirror, while still on the car and without removal of the st. wheel. That broken alu. pin is probably the only thing that could jam the internals, and once you get rid of it, all should be well. The pin was probably only in there to keep the internals together for assembly at the factory, and serves no other purpose.

    If you have a heavy duty paper clip and can turn the ig. key to the 60 degree point, you can then remove the ig. lock and internal camshaft, get the broken pin out, and then re-assemble.

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