I understand it's not good to have the spacers, but can someone describe exactly why? Just so if I do choose this option I will understand when something is going wrong or not and what exactly is happening.Originally Posted by angrypancake
e39 wheels will fit 34 with hubcentiric thingies, they're $4 each from tire rack. 3 seires wheels will fit with big ass spacers. 20mm or so. not the smartest idea, but they will work ok.
Originally Posted by Alexlind123
I understand it's not good to have the spacers, but can someone describe exactly why? Just so if I do choose this option I will understand when something is going wrong or not and what exactly is happening.Originally Posted by angrypancake
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E34 1/'89 ///M20 2.5i: Lachsilber
Seriously I actually need to know what i need to put on the car to make them fit, or exactly why it's not good to have wheels like this on the car.Originally Posted by CharlesAFerg
Thanks!
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E34 1/'89 ///M20 2.5i: Lachsilber
big ass spacers....
They are made and can be bought....but beware.
unless you only drive parade routes on Sunday or have a schedule for wheel inspection, I'd avoid big ass spacers...one more thing to fix.
Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........
lol goddamnit...
I'm just gonna ask someone else.
Nobody says why, just that it's BAD.
why will my wheels fall off after a certain amount of time, not long enough studs??
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E34 1/'89 ///M20 2.5i: Lachsilber
Those should fit. It's basically a 16 inch version of the basketweave updated. The offset looks the same too.
"Scarlet" `97 540/6 with sleepy mods.
"Box Car" '87 535isA - Old School Charm, new school Flair
You will need longer studs for $ure - if the original studs reach through the spacers to the rotor hats at all they will only be holding by a thread or two - you're just gonna hate that moment when you see your wheel(s) pass you before the car drops. BTDT. Course it will probably come loose under stress - ever try cornering on a rotor? By adding spacers and centering rings you are increasing the # of places your wheels can be off center and misaligned: major potential for wheel wobble. Dats why.
Tom
Originally Posted by CharlesAFerg
Chalres, from an engineering standpoint, the spaces provide two interfaces for tolerances to go wrong, instead of the regular one interface.Originally Posted by CharlesAFerg
BMW wheels are all "hub-centric", meaning the wheel's axial centering (i.e. in-line with the axel's extended centerline) is maintained through contact between a raised radius on the hub, and a matching machined surface on the inner mounting surface of the wheel. The bolts simply hold the wheel to the hub, they provide no centering effect (unlike non-hubcentric wheels where the bolts or nuts actually maintain positioning and alignment of the wheel to the hub.)
On a standard (proper) offset wheel (E34, E39 (with hubcentric rings to "shim" between the smaller radius of the hub and the larger radius of the relief machined in the mounting surface of the wheel proper, thus maintaining proper axial alignment), E32, etc...) there is only alignment-critical contact between hub and wheel. With spacers (which also have to have hubcentric-machining BTW) there is contact from hub to spacer, then between spacer and wheel. There is always some tolerance for play, but in this case, you've doubled the potential mis-alignment, and that is more likely to cause overall alignment problems and unwanted vibrations.
Cheers,
Duey
I've also heard that longer lug bolts and spacers put more stress on your wheel bearings leading to shorter replacement intervals.
Thanks guys! They're going on craigslist tomorrow lolOriginally Posted by Alan_525i
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E34 1/'89 ///M20 2.5i: Lachsilber