Ignition switch snapped and key spins freely

[mossyoaks]

I've searched for any similar posts but came up short.

Sunday, after turning the key to start the car, dash lights came on for a second then a "snap" and key just turns from off to start position with no friction or action on the power.

It appears to be activating the odometer and OBC but not the radio or any other electrical devices (wipers, horn, lights).

Any similar stories with resolution?

Thanks!
Chip
95 525it, 162K, TStars, Euro Roof Rack, OEM hitch.

[Felixdacat]

I had the same problem happen with my GTI. Theres a pin inside, and it had broken. I had to replace the ignition. Sounds like you may have to do the same. Some of the gurus here might have another solution though.

[John in CT]

earlier this year. There is an incredibly thin pot metal transfer bar two or three inches long which fits behind and in-line with the ingnition key cylinder and transfers the rotating motion from the ignition key tumbler to the electrical switches and the mechanism which unlocks the steering wheel. The dealer clipped me 6 hundred USD and change which included a new ignition lock keyed to my key which had to come from Germany!! That was the only way to keeep the doors and ignition key the same. The actual part which broke comprises a housing which accepts the ingnition cylinder and contains the aformentioned cheap-assed transfer bar. As far as i know the transfer bar is not available seperatly but I could be wrong. The assembly was marked "Valeo" i'm pretty sure and I have the broken part in my garage. The dealers rational for changing the ignition cyclinder was that perhaps broken bits from the fractured transfer bar got inside there and could cause trouble later, which I called BS on but that was the only way they would stand behind repair. I did find pics on web showing the broken bits. and will look for the link.

I cannot speak for the complexing of DIY steering wheel removal but I elected to farm the job out because I was nervous about airbag and screwing w/ anti theft stuff, but I was a wuss. If having same key not important to you I have a new ignition and key which I bought from BWA to try to save time, dealer said a week plus for the part from Germany but it came in three days. I'll let you have it cheap.

Good luck,

John in CT

[John in CT]

John in CT
1995 BMW 525im 90,000
Big Time Poster Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 110


final analysis.....(Rant)

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OK, the failure point is a thin casting which fits in a housing behind the ignition lock cylinder. The function of this cast rod, about three inches long, 1/4 inch diameter, is tho transmit the rotating movement of the key to both the electric stuff and the mechanism which locks the wheel. The stealer replaced the housing containing this broken thin rod, for 138 bucks parts cost and the ignition cylinder itself for another 80 USD. I don't think I needed the cylinder but they insisted, thanks BMW of North Haven (Ct) Labor was a staggering 350 USD. The failure point on the cast rod is unbelievably thin, hard to imagine how it lasted 11 years.......

Is the cast rod itself available seperately? The housing is stamped Valeo (sp?) which makes lights and all kinds of other stuff. All things considered it is probably a DIY job but I was too timid to undertake it (airbagphobic...)

If I knew how cheesy this part was I would have considered a pre-emmptive change-out.....but who knew??


BR,

John
1995 525i oxford green/parchment 5-speed[/quote]

[John in CT]

here's one link showing the proceedure to remove the ignition key barrel after which I'm pretty sure you can remove broken pin and start your car with the right screw driver......but so can anyone else too!!!! The old link from Shogun showing a broken transfer bar is broken. Hope this helps,


http://evansweb.info/articles/2003/0...on-lock-barrel

[DigitalRelay]

Just so happens I installed my new ignition barrel today. It is not a bad job and a search here for "ignition cylinder" will turn up some helpful threads complete with some diy instructions on removing the ignition barrel.

Removing the steering wheel for this job is totally unnecessary, although it's a fairly quick and easy procedure to do so anyway. Coincidently, I also removed the steering wheel today to repair some bad wires on the horn slip ring that were shorting and causing the horn to activate by itself. Not such a good thing when your driving through the grocery store parking lot waiting for the little old lady to cross.

Back to the ignition barrel... since yours actually broke off in there, you might have a tough time getting things to line up right so you can pull the barrel out. Basically, you need to remove the plastic ring around the key hole. It is actually an antennae that reads a microchip inside your key. The plastic might snap during removal - mine did. Then you'll need to insert a sturdy paper clip or small allen wrench into the little hole in the key cylinder. The tricky part is that you need your key inserted and turned about 50-60 degrees. Wait a minute... refer to:

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...ition+cylinder

and

http://evansweb.info/articles/2003/0...on-lock-barrel

I ordered my new ignition barrel and antennae from the local dealership. Together they cost around $125 I think. I needed to bring in current registration and title along with my driver's license so I could order the coded version by VIN so I could keep my ignition and door locks matching. The ignition barrel did come from Germany and took almost four weeks to arrive.

The good news is that installation is a breeze, since it is very easy to line up the key with the barrel out. Just pop it in, snap on the antennae ring and you're golden.

Also, once you get the original barrel out, you can start your car with a screwdriver while waiting for the new barrel to arrive. Not very sophisticated, but it does work. You may need to hold your key close to the antennae ring while starting the car with the screwdriver. I did.

One last thing, it seemed it was just the cylinder that went bad in my case, not the whole barrel. The end of the barrel that turns the ignition assembly was still together. It sounds like the mechanics that did John in CT's car replaced the entire ignition assembly reasoning broken bits could have gotten in there. I'd call BS on that too. Even if it broke off, I think you'd be okay removing the broken pieces and replacing just the ignition barrel. YMMV.

[acidfire52]

This same thing happened to me about a week ago. My ignition barrel was fine, it was the transfer rod behind, broke in two.

Got a new part from the dealer for about $140 and replaced myself. They only trick part is there are two screws on the top that break off upon install, theft protection. You will see them as two domed covers, look like they would come off to expose a screw. I used a chisle to turn them, they are not in there very hard.

All in all, not a real hard job. Just be sure to line the cam up properly.. I only turn 180 degrees normally, but you can turn over to the opposite 180. I did that, had to tear it all apart.

[mossyoaks]

I insert the perfect size allen wrench 20mm but can't seem to get the lock cylinder to pull out. I'm pulling on the key?

Will it pull out in the exact position where the wire/wrench slides in or do you turn the cylinder?

What am I missing??

Thanks for such great support on this one!

Chip in SC

[DigitalRelay]

You don not turn the ignition barrel. You want to turn the key about 50-60 degrees clockwise. It's more of an art than a science. The allen wrench needs to go in pretty far and you need to angle the part of the allen wrench sticking out towards the key. Once my allen wrench went in far enough, it got stuck. When I tried to pull it out, the whole barrel came out.

[Dash01]

A heavy duty paper clip, straightended except for a ~20 degree bend about 1/4" from the tip, works better than an allen wrench, which is too stiff.