Reply With QuoteCould the battery not be holding a charge? Assuming it starts and drives fine under daily use (without leaving it sit for a couple of days), I might wager that it isn't holding the charge. Battery < Alternator.
Bill R. might help.
Dave M
Alternator replacement 80amp or 115amp
I am considering replacing my alternator.. If I dont drive for a couple of days it wont start. I put it on the machine and everything checks out diodes are ok.. It just takes a dive when I start to pile on the accessories.. The battery is new as well. So what I really need to know is if it matters whih one I use and if it is actually better if I use the 115amp
Thanks
jim
2 Grand Master
Could the battery not be holding a charge? Assuming it starts and drives fine under daily use (without leaving it sit for a couple of days), I might wager that it isn't holding the charge. Battery < Alternator.
Bill R. might help.
Dave M
10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
*RIP Oskar the DOG*
Big, Big Time Poster
maybe there is a voltage drop possibby a bad ground or something.
Big Time Poster
It depend on what is on your car.If you have lots of elektronical stuff in it i woult choose for a bigger altenator.
Big, Big Time Poster
You don't just "switch" to a higher rated amp alternator. They are supposed to be used for cars with specified requirements i.e. stereo amp, more accessories, etc.----Sometimes when the brushes wear down, they flop around a bit and f**k up the charge. How is your brush pack?
2 Grand Master
I had the exact same problem. I had a current drain, and the battery was bad from being dicharged by the current drain.
Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
southwest WA
5-10 Grand Master
When my valeo alt failed I went to a bosch alternator @ 140amps. Very nice. You have to get a new pulley though - the Valeo and bosch units have different pullies and no the pullie does not come with the alternator.
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