Anyone have squeaks coming from behind the instrument cluster?

[genphreak]

Just wondering... mine creaks and squeaks like it a dried out coffin being exumed from a tight crypt. Its been annoying me for years.

Have tried a lot of things right up to removing the dashboard... still haven't got it. But now I think I might just have the fix...

[rob101]

Hijack!
have you cleaned out your inbox yet?

[mattyb]

ah maaaaaaaaaaate, just slap a can of wd40 in every orifice near there and she'll be right. serioulsy though is this when steering? mine creaks and squeaks like theres a frog or some other little critter stuck in there and hes getting his leg ripped orf. doesnt happen all the time but is annoying from what was a $150,000 vehicle.

[Alexlind123]

My steering wheel shrieks when i steer.

[Jehu]

I sometimes hear what sounds like a computer hard disc drive writing when i shut the car off behind the cluster..

[genphreak]

I sometimes hear what sounds like a computer hard disc drive writing when i shut the car off behind the cluster..

Wow, well there's a few causes to these suggestions: The computer HDD is one that sounds to me like the HVAC system (Number 1 below). HDDs all sound quite different, so bare with me-

1. Whirs and flopping sounds when starting up and shutting down are generally the HVAC controls (air vent flaps) that are all controlled by an ingenious maze of electric stepper motors within the dash that BMW should have got a Nobel prize for designing- these little things are remarkably reliable on e32 and e34. They allow the air and heat/cool to be distributed in the neatest, most comprehensive but simplest way I've ever seen in a car. Anything this complex on most cars would just go wrong all the time and be practically unfixable.


2. A kind of drilling noise, sometimes sounding a bit grindy (when the problem matures), ocurring a few seconds after moving fray from the kerb, is the pressure adjuster device (PAD). Only applies to 535, 530 and 540 vehicles (maybe some 525 too) that have the feature- (its a handy thing that gives a perfect wipe at 'bahn speed). The pressure adjuster is a motor and gear mechanism encased inside an aluminium housing underneath the driver's wiper pivot. It sounds like it is inside the car (ie is noisy) when it needs greasing. All the gears inside it are plastic so it needs special grease as the factory uses. After 10 years this needs to be done else it will jam up and you will need a new PAD, which is not bad but a PITA to add to an already burgeoning list of stuff we tend to have owning an old e34. When I say not bad, don't goto BMW Australia- they want over $650 for one. In the US they are much cheaper. Still its better to lubricate the one you have. See Sean and Johan's site for details or search for any of my previous posts on the PAD.

3). Creaks and squeaks (only whilst driving, otherwise known as Mattyb's symphony of tortured frogs)
If coming from behind the cluster (instruments) is most likely the cluster itself: In time it warps a bit and the different plastics the cluster's casing is made of actually start to squeak- but only when the car moves. I fixed this initially using silicone spray (WD40 can be actually pretty caustic stuff to some things) but it didn't last. The solution was to pull the cluster and use masking tape around the perimeter of the casing to prevent the squeaks, like this:

Instructions:
1. Remove cluster

• Remove sterring wheel (remember to insert your key into the barrel and relase the wheel retaining device. You need a 21mm (7/8) socket to undo the wheel nut.
• Place a handkerchief over the steering column to prevent damage to your precious cluster plexiglass due to simple slips from wiggling'n jiggling
• Undo 2 small philips screws at the top of the cluster that hold it into the dash pad.
• Pull the cluster forward careful being not to damage the fragile plexiglass, do not force anything, the plastic is brittle and fragile too. use clean fingers and nails to dislodge and pull it forward.
• Once pulled forward, undo the connector locks beside each of the 4 connectors. Then pry the connectors the rest of the way out of their sockets.
• If having trouble getting in behind, remove the lower access panel (under the dash beside the column) which allow you to insert your well-practiced monkey arm to remove the cluster's rear connectors.
• Pull the cluster from the shade/dash pad carefully avoiding damage to the glass.

2. Open on your work bench (simpy find the two thumb screws/locks and turn 90 degrees, then open the shell like an oyster).

3. Apply masking tape as shown above.

4. Replace bulbs where necessary (doing all of them and keeping the old ones as spares is a good idea )

5. Close the cluster, clean it up an take it back to the car for installation.

6. Replacement is the reverse of removal. Just make sure your handkerchief is well located... and you remember to bolt the steering wheel back on... remembering to put the key in to disengage the wheel retainer block. Nick

[Michael999]

My steering wheel shrieks when i steer.

Arent those your tyres? :P

[genphreak]

mattttttttttttttttyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee... yea I think yours has the same disease as mine. Check out Fix #3 in my earlier post. I'm stumped re the shreiking wheel problem, but its probably something interfering which can be sorted out when the wheel is carefully removed.

Not that this is a job for someone that has never done a BMW before, the wheel retainer pin had me swearing for a while until i put the key in (somehow)...

[Airborne001]

Here is the link for fixing that frog for good every time you turn the wheel.

http://evansweb.info/articles/2003/0...steering-wheel