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Thread: 1994 530i DME code 1263

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Norfolk, VA
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    6

    Default 1994 530i DME code 1263

    Hey guys and gals,
    It's been a while since I've been at this forum, but I'm sick of giving my money to the "stealer". I've had a check engine light for the last day and can't find much info on fixing it. I downloaded my faults today and came up with code 1263, Fuel tank evaporative (EVAP) system. The Bentley manual tells me to go to Repair Group 160 and test the EVAP purge valve. There are no instructions in repair group 160 as to where this valve is or how to test it. I'm assuming it's somewhere near the evaporator charcoal filter, but I don't know where that is either.

    Has anyone had any experience with this fault, troubleshooting and repairing, required parts and cost?

    Sounds simple to me, just need to find the stuff.

    Thanks,

    Cal

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    USA
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    Default

    i have pics, will post in an hour or so
    Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    USA
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    drivers side behind bumper (removed) under the low beam and parking light.

    you can see the canister and the valve under it.

    there is a release cap on the canister not shown. it clips onto the thing at the bottom right of the pic

    Name:  Evap.jpg
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    the large hose goes to the intake manifold, and there is another hose on the other side of the valve that goes to the canister. then the other hose on the canister goes to the fuel tank area.
    Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Norfolk, VA
    Posts
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    Default Thanks for the info

    Appreciate the pictures. Never taken the bumper off. I hope that's not too difficult. Do you know of any test procedures that can be done on the valve? I don't know if the valve is vacuum operated or electrically operated. But it must have some sensor on it that tell the system that it is malfunctioning.

    Thanks again,
    Cal

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    USA
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    its electrically operated.

    you need to test to see if its stuck open by applying pressure on the canister side and seeing if it comes out the other side.

    if there is a leak you are in trouble.

    otherwise the car will work fine but pollute about 20% more and be harder to cold start.
    Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Norfolk, VA
    Posts
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    By "in trouble", what exactly do you mean? Is it expensive? Or just difficult to replace?

    This test that you describe, are you saying disconnect the hose going into the canister and apply pressure to that side of the valve to see if it holds pressure?

    Thanks again,

    Cal

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Norfolk, VA
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    Today I took the bumper off (much easier than I had expected) and found the valve in question. I took the valve out and it blows through both ways. I took it apart and found that it is fried. Looks like it got wet or something and shorted/failed. Went to a junk yard today that had some older BMW's, one E34 525 ('89) and it's got a slightly different system. So I guess I'm going to end up at the dealer tomorrow for a part. The part number is 1 726 705. I did a search at a parts place and they sell it for $71. Looks like a pretty simple part for that much money. Hope the new part fixes the problem.

    On another note, does anyone know where the outside air temperature sensor is on this car? I'm not sure if I disturbed the wiring to it or not when I took the bumper off, but when I got it back on and started the car, the outside temp read -31. Not that cold in Virginia in early September.

    Thanks again,

    Cal

  8. #8
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    Mar 2006
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    USA
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    its attatched to the bumper. generally you need top unplug that + fog and sidemarkers before removing the bumper. its near the vent for the alternator.
    Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Norfolk, VA
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    Default

    Thanks for all the input. I ended up getting a part from a salvage yard out of a '94 3 series for $35 ($90 from local dealer). I was concerned because the part I got was a Bosch part, unlike my original (BMW), with different part numbers. But it works and everything is fine.

    I have considered selling this car on many occassions due to concerns of a major breakdown and big $$$$ for repairs. I've had the car for 5 years (longer than I've had any other car for the last 22 years) now and still love to drive it. I would like to trade it in for a 2003 540, but they are so expensive still. I'm pretty confused at what I really want to do. I've actually considered finding a 4.0L motor for this car and converting it. My biggest complaint of my car is the suspension; the person who owned it before me lowered it by 1.5" and put Eibach racing shocks on the front and Bilstien sports on the back as well as 17" wheels. It looks great, but the ride is pretty rough. I would like a little more power and a little nicer ride, but I'm afraid I need to live with what I've got for a bit more.

    Any opinions on my concerns?

    Thanks,

    Cal

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Portsmouth, UK
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    148

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    Having got both the 530 and the 540, I would say go for the 540 but dont bother changing the engine on the 530, just sell the 530 and buy a 540. I doubt you'll have to pay much more and cheaper than an engine swap I would have thought, and fewer headaches ! That way, you'll get out of the suspension too, which you seem unhappy with - putting a 4L lump on bad suspension would only make it worse so you wouldn't be happy just swapping the engine.

    However, having had a 530 with stock/std suspension and one with the m-tech, I would say the m-tech is far better but dont go too big on the wheels - 17 max, but 16 seems the ideal size with the m-tech - 17+m-tech=a bit hard4me.

    Just my opinions.
    Last edited by bagpuss; 09-13-2006 at 07:58 PM.
    1994 E34 530i MTech UK 137,000 Miles 45,000 on Alusil

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