Reply With Quoteunplug LKM and see if it remains there (the short). If so, no doubt it is the License Plate system, as it is the only one Gray/Black going through LKM.
Javier
When I got the short on gray/yellow, I had not removed a sidemarker light (just the right front parking light, not realizing the side marker was illuminated... thought it was just a reflector). Disconnecting that bulb, I think gray/yellow is fine.
To test which circuit is causing the overload, I can remove the light switch and jump blue/red wire to either gray/yellow or gray/black and see which one blows the fuse next time (assuming I cannot repeat the chime causing the problem).
Going to drive to work today with headlights on to give it a long test. Will mess with it more tonight.
Thanks again for everybody's help!
Grand Master
Then, being the short at Gray/Black wire, ...
unplug LKM and see if it remains there (the short). If so, no doubt it is the License Plate system, as it is the only one Gray/Black going through LKM.
Javier
So far today I have been driving around (~40 minutes of seat time) with the chime disconnected and headlights on, no problem yet. (/me crosses fingers)
Big Time Poster
How do you disconnect the chime?
I've been tracing a fuse problem involving the same lights for almost a year now. As I read this post it occurs to me that I don't recall hearing the chime when the fuse is blown.
Mark Hall
'95 525iA EAT chipped (just one now)
'98 528iA
I plugged the chime in last night to see if the fuse would blow... but it didn't. All my lights are working now so hopefully I somehow fixed it in all that disconnecting, checking, and reconnecting the load.
The chime is above the pedals. Remove that black cover above gas/brake pedals and its the small connected cylinder that is attached to the cover. It didn't make sense to me when I connected it and the fuse blew the first time... so still a mystery if it is involved in the problem or not.
I had identical problem w/ my "95 525it. Broken wires at the right hatch hinge was the cause. First look, it appeared fine. Upon manually squeezing the harnesses I finally noticed the obvious break. From that point it was an easy fix.
This was the fix for mine:
Remove the inside trim (and tool box) from the trunk lid to give access to wiring. Remove the plastic protector from the left side trunk lid arm. Examine all wires for wear points and/or damaged insulation.
Make necessary repairs to all wires. Hope this helps, good luck.
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