Auto Transmission 'clunk' when shifting from 1st to 2nd

[bbart]

When braking, from 2nd to 1st 'clunk' and a short push.
When accelerating from 1st to 2nd 'clunk' and a short push. Rest shifting up goes smoothly, effortlessly, not a problem.

I am scared my tranny is due for some costly repairs or is this normal for a 1997 E34 530i V8 with 85000 Kilometres on the clock?

Bought SLICK 50 ANNUAL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TREATMENT. Any good?

Thanks you all!

Bart.

Oh, another thing--the radio BECKER how to reset, it doesn't play asking me for the code which i don't have because i bought off a dealer secondhand. Also what is the default BECKER factory code?? tks

[1995 525i]

When braking, from 2nd to 1st 'clunk' and a short push.
When accelerating from 1st to 2nd 'clunk' and a short push. Rest shifting up goes smoothly, effortlessly, not a problem.

I am scared my tranny is due for some costly repairs or is this normal for a 1997 E34 530i V8 with 85000 Kilometres on the clock?

Bought SLICK 50 ANNUAL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TREATMENT. Any good?

Thanks you all!

Bart.

Oh, another thing--the radio BECKER how to reset, it doesn't play asking me for the code which i don't have because i bought off a dealer secondhand. Also what is the default BECKER factory code?? tks

It would probably do you some good to read my post titled "Need adive! $2300 repair quote in hand". Is it a 1997 530? If so it it's an E39 not an E34. I am not an expert on transmissions but there are lots of guys here who should be able to help you out.

Good luck.

[ghost_ryder35]

When braking, from 2nd to 1st 'clunk' and a short push.
When accelerating from 1st to 2nd 'clunk' and a short push. Rest shifting up goes smoothly, effortlessly, not a problem.

I am scared my tranny is due for some costly repairs or is this normal for a 1997 E34 530i V8 with 85000 Kilometres on the clock?

Bought SLICK 50 ANNUAL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TREATMENT. Any good?

Thanks you all!

Bart.

Oh, another thing--the radio BECKER how to reset, it doesn't play asking me for the code which i don't have because i bought off a dealer secondhand. Also what is the default BECKER factory code?? tks

I had to pay the dealer 70 bucks for my code, then they gave it to me so if it ever happened again I could put it in my self. Also, it should be on the owners manual.

About the transmission, shifting in an auto always brings problems first of all, so I would stop. Secondly, when was the last time the tranny was flushed? I would do it right now, then maybe again in 1000 miles, to make sure all the old fluid is out. Good luck and keep us posted.

[BillionPa]

i wouldnt put slick 50 anything anywhere.

[DanH]

Your trans mounts could be separated. I replaced my and they both came out in two pieces. Mine used to clunk between R and D, probably from the torque shifting the trans on the broken mounts.

Also, could be the center bearing on the driveshaft. This may not apply in your case, since I dont know what car you really have. The one you mentioned does not exist.

[Qube]

The only time I'd use a fix-in-a-bottle is for temporary flat tire repair in a pinch.

[joshua43214]

Someone posted recently that had a post 95 e34. Is this the same car? thought it was a 96 somewhere in Indonesia or something. I don't think there is any 97 spec e34's.

Either way, check the drive shaft, could be a bad or loose carrier bearing or a bad guibo.

[genphreak]

Someone posted recently that had a post 95 e34. Is this the same car? thought it was a 96 somewhere in Indonesia or something. I don't think there is any 97 spec e34's.

Either way, check the drive shaft, could be a bad or loose carrier bearing or a bad guibo.

I've also seen this be adjustment only.

If your accelerator linkage or Throttle Position Switch, perhaps even CO screw (perhaps not but possibly), has been messed with and is now out of whack, the trans computer may not be changing down at the right moment. This can cause a clunk. Follow the instructions in the TIS (not the Bently) for ensuring the TPS and throttle cable are correctly set.

EDIT- Scrub the idle air bypass (CO screw) as a check; yours has no CO screw. Also check for no vacuum leaks as they make any adjustment painful to the extreme...

Worked for me and cost nothing but a bit of time. Nick

[bbart]

Someone posted recently that had a post 95 e34. Is this the same car? thought it was a 96 somewhere in Indonesia or something. I don't think there is any 97 spec e34's.

Either way, check the drive shaft, could be a bad or loose carrier bearing or a bad guibo.

Same car! Thanks!

Bart

[bbart]

thanks