Reply With QuoteSounds like ignition problem...
But then again i might be wrong.
MAF sensor problem??
Here is my car:
1991 525i automatic, 141,000mi
Here are the symptoms as described by me and my mechanic:
backfire through exhaust on acceleration
backfire through intake on acceleration
rough idle
Computer readout said it was a faulty MAF sensor so I replaced it...but I am still having the same problems...Any ideas?
...also, is anybody in need of a almost new MAF sensor? (apparently I have two good ones now)
Sounds like ignition problem...
But then again i might be wrong.
Thats what the mechanic first thought too...apparently he tested the ignition system and everything seemed to check out. He could be wrong though...it wouldn't be the first time! I think I would trust anybody on this site before I would trust anything else that mechanic tells me.
Green Beret Special Ops
i agree on ignition, wires cap rotor plugs? what plugs are you runnin?
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
I have no idea. I suppose that means I should think about getting new ones? If so, can you direct me to the best ones?
well I just tried to take a look at the spark plugs but it seems I don't have the necessary tools to do so. Time to head to the auto store to buy some tools I guess!
Grand Master
sounds like something is wrong with the timing, start with distributor items and then the crank position sensor.
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
So I just put in new spark plugs and it seemed to smooth out my idle. Still backfireing through the intake though...Originally Posted by kalsman
Major Contributor
An intake backfire can look like a MAf problem on a scan. This is why I always harp about trouble codes only being hints to prblems, not actual problems.
Backfiring can only happen if a valve is open during the combustion proccess, so you need to verify ignition components and timing before you move to anyting else.
Take off the cap, look at the contacts, is there any black stuff on them?
Can you see that they are worn (if the surface is uneven then its worn)?
Buy a new rotor anyways, its cheap and atleast i cant visually tell if its ok or not.
It should take you like 30mins to take it apart and put back together.
Posting Permissions