Exactly, how does one do a fuel compression test?
I'll be looking for the fuses and relays and whatnot tommorow. I'll also check for the buzzing.
Thanks guys![]()
Exactly, how does one do a fuel compression test?
I'll be looking for the fuses and relays and whatnot tommorow. I'll also check for the buzzing.
Thanks guys![]()
www.KaRealtySF.com
Build Date: 05-1995 /Engine: m50tu /Automatic Transmission /ABS /NO ASC /Open Differential /EAT Chip
Easiest way I've found to do it, is to use the nearest mechanic. You'd have to buy the proper guage otherwise. I had mine done for fairly cheap. It's been a while but I think it was only like 30-40 bucks but that was an Indy Mech.Originally Posted by liquidtiger720
Self proclaimed eBay Sleazeball
Originally Posted by cableface
I bought my fuel pressure gauge, brass T adpater and fuel line for ~$30
Any other home tests that I could do?
I was hoping I didnt have to get it towed again.
www.KaRealtySF.com
Build Date: 05-1995 /Engine: m50tu /Automatic Transmission /ABS /NO ASC /Open Differential /EAT Chip
Disconnect the fuel line and visually look at it. The fuel pressure would have to be OBVIOUSLY low for it to not even run. At least that's what my intuition tells me. If it just a trickle or like an old man pissing, then the pump or the filter is probably the problem. If it's jetting out then you need to look elsewhere.Originally Posted by liquidtiger720
Self proclaimed eBay Sleazeball
check to see if you are getting a spark during cranking.
the crank position sensor may have died.
30K is way overdue for a fuel filter.
try DME and fuel pump relays first though.
Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue
No starts prety much all start the same. Check for fuel and check for spark. If you don't have access to the proper test gear, you pretty much have to have a let a mechanic look at it.
It does sound like a fuel problem to me, drag an assistant along and have them crank the engine while you hit the bottom of the tank with a big rubber mallet. If the car starts, you need a fuel pump.
When I had a fuel pump failure, mechanic sprayed something called "rapid start" into one of the tubes in the engine bay, while I was cranking the starter. And the engine came alive, which meant no fuel.
You can check with a multimeter if the pump is getting electricity. I think this is the easiest one to do, provided you have the multimeter. Plus the fusebox.
1994 520i with M50 engine, manual transmission and air conditioner.
VIN: GG45422
How does one check for spark?
Take the plug out set it down on something stable and crank it? Sorry, I am a noob. And, no...I don't have money to take the car to a mechanic. I am a poor college student. Trying to figure this one out on my own first.![]()
www.KaRealtySF.com
Build Date: 05-1995 /Engine: m50tu /Automatic Transmission /ABS /NO ASC /Open Differential /EAT Chip
I would start with the filter, every time I brought my car to the e34 indy, he insisted on changing it - years of constant problems with e34 filter issues taught him well!Originally Posted by liquidtiger720
simple and cheap, worth a shot.
Were you low on fuel? Climb a hill?
I ran out of fuel in the 540 a few times, it seemed that because of my driveway (big hill), if I was low, the tilt would empty the tank enough to one end that I couldn't restart it without adding a few gallons.
It sounds like what you described, sputtering, then dead. After refueling a bit, it would crank for a minute before starting up as well, it was not instant, and would chug for 30 seconds before idling smooth.
Good luck.
Surely, the big guns of the forum will be around soon to help you out though!
^°^ ><((({º>°°