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Thread: Brake Rotor vs High Speed Cutter

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boston & Attleboro MA
    Posts
    727

    Default Brake Rotor vs High Speed Cutter

    Heres what I had to resort to after the rotor bolt got stripped about half way out... the high speed cutter was the last resort but it did the job... oh the frustration.....


    Current
    2008 M5 6 Spd
    2000 Z3 2.8 5 Spd MSport
    2012 X5 35d Sport
    1995 540i 6 Spd
    1992 535i 5 Spd

    Former
    1995 530iA
    1986 635CSI 5 Spd
    2011 X3 2.8 MSport

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    tempe
    Posts
    293

    Default

    that looks like a crapy day were you able to get the bolt out after all that good old vice grip action?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boston & Attleboro MA
    Posts
    727

    Default

    After using several different bits, then drilling it, then having a bit break in the drilled hole, and many other failed attempts, I used the high speed cutter to eliminate the bolt head, rotor came off and then what was left came out easy.
    Current
    2008 M5 6 Spd
    2000 Z3 2.8 5 Spd MSport
    2012 X5 35d Sport
    1995 540i 6 Spd
    1992 535i 5 Spd

    Former
    1995 530iA
    1986 635CSI 5 Spd
    2011 X3 2.8 MSport

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,839

    Default

    wow... make sure you use anti sieze on the new bolt, and torque it at its unnaturally low spec!
    Alusil, Dinan DME | ITG Air Filter | Eibach/Bilstein HD | 26/20 Swaybars | Iridium plugs | Depo/ProLumen HID | Optima batt. | no AC | Stoptech brake lines, Frozen rotors, brass bushings, Superblue

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    137

    Default

    For a few years I have been using Walter Rock 'n Roll ceramic-based anti-seize compound.



    It's certainly the best of the anti-seize compounds I've tried. It is quite a "dry" formulation, and since it's ceramic-based there is no galvanic corrosion to be worried about. Temperatures of 1400C (2500F!) do not bother it (thus it is perfect for brakes) and when in service it acts as a sludgey powder in the space between threads (rather than as metal particles suspended in grease as Nevr-Seez and the like).

    Here's a link to the Walter site giving details:

    http://www.jwalterinc.com/walter_us/...al&item=53D854

    I get it from Acklands-Grainger industrial supplies but it is also available from a number of online retails such as Etox, etc. (click the photo above to see the Etox site)

    Anyway, I really like the product and recommend it highly for rotor setscrews (and other threaded fasteners exposed to hostile conditions and that you want to be able to get off later.)

    Enjoy!

    Fusion

    p.s. - Walter has two great bolt-removing products as well: Cold Shock bolt-release and Bolt-Out penetrating lubricant. I also recommend these highly - particularly when trying to remove the fasteners you didn't use Rock 'n Roll on when you put them together...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default Next time you need to remove one of those and your

    going to replace the rotor anyway you can just take a large hammer and whack the back of the rotor on the opposite side of the rotor from the screw, hitting it there will break out that thin amount that the hold down screw fastens onto and then you can grab the screw with vicegrips after the rotor is off. Takes only a few seconds this way. I've had to do it to a number of them that were brought to me already chewed up



    Quote Originally Posted by DaCan23
    After using several different bits, then drilling it, then having a bit break in the drilled hole, and many other failed attempts, I used the high speed cutter to eliminate the bolt head, rotor came off and then what was left came out easy.


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    yep hammer works great

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    going to replace the rotor anyway you can just take a large hammer and whack the back of the rotor on the opposite side of the rotor from the screw, hitting it there will break out that thin amount that the hold down screw fastens onto and then you can grab the screw with vicegrips after the rotor is off. Takes only a few seconds this way. I've had to do it to a number of them that were brought to me already chewed up
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    982

    Default

    B.F.H !

    Big ****ing Hammer !
    Derek A.
    90 535i 5 Speed - Style 5 17"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    4,374

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by winfred
    yep hammer works great
    ONe of mine blew out before the wheel came off. After removing the caliper the whole disc just fell off- I have to remember which one I put it on jic it takes my toes off next time...

    Join the Aussie
    540i LE yahoo forum

    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

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