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Thread: Brake light switch is depressed and wont cheer up

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    378

    Default Brake light switch is depressed and wont cheer up

    nor will it come out of its shell. Read on:

    I've had the "Brake Light Circuit" message appear a few times, so I went ahead and ordered a new brake light switch from BMP design (first time doing business, part of a big order), and the part number they give for their product, 61 31 8 360 417, matches that of BMW. When I received the switch today, it looks right, but says "made in italy" and does not bear the BMW roundel. hmmm....

    Well, I went ahead and removed the old switch (had to break it as suggested, so no reusing it now), and then tried to understand how this brakes light switch works. The white center "plunger" sticks out about 3/4" and is surrounded by a red plastic locking piece. In trying to understand how the device works, I pushed the white plunger in. It went all the way in, but then did not release all the way. Now only about 1/4" instead of 3/4" of the white plunger is visible. It still moves in and out, but only in the limited range of motion.

    Has anyone else had this issue? I've tried pushing and pulling on the white piece, but it simply will not release back to its full extension. I've read that there's some kind of ratchet mechanism inside, but I can't imagine it should be this complicated. I'm mostly just annoyed that I spent 18 bucks and received what looks like a non-OEM part. BTW, with the new switch installed in the condition as described, my brake lights are stuck ON. Thanks for any input

    Greg
    _

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle, Washington USA
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Been there. The stop light switch is adjustable... You need to extend the white plunger back out all the way. It should be hard to adjust in and out if its not then its garbadge. The way it works is install it fully extended (install with the break petal to the floor) then when you let the break petal come back up it will click that plunger to the correct area. When it's adjusted all the way in there's not enough play to trigger the lights back off. Be carefull removing the switch!!! It must be fully extended to remove... You pull that plunger till its fully extended (keep the petal to the floor) and slide that lock ring foward, it will then remove with ease. I broke the first one I bought trying to figure the removal and adjustment out.

    Because you allready have it installed just do this:

    Start the car.
    Press the break petal to the floor.
    With the petal to the floor, very carefully, extend the plunger fully back out.
    Allow the break petal to return to its normal position. This will self adjust the switch.

    If you still have problems with your break lights staying on then the switch is no good.

    OEM is only about $30 from the dealer...
    Josh



    1990 BMW 525iA
    2000 Toyota Corolla CE
    2007 Toyota Echo

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    378

    Default

    Josh,

    Thank you for the advice... I followed it carefully and I'm up and running now with fully functional brake lights! Thanks again

    Greg
    _

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

    Default

    The V8 cars use a different brake light switch than the earlier ones, but the operation's physically the same. As was mentioned earlier (I think), they self adjust.

    One trick that helps during removal is to start the car and depress the brake pedal to get more travel out of it. Extend the locking cylinder as far as possible. Believe it or not, it's actually possible to do these without removing the lower trim panels -- a little finesse and a good hand is all it takes.


    best, whit

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lowell
    The V8 cars use a different brake light switch than the earlier ones, but the operation's physically the same. As was mentioned earlier (I think), they self adjust.

    One trick that helps during removal is to start the car and depress the brake pedal to get more travel out of it. Extend the locking cylinder as far as possible. Believe it or not, it's actually possible to do these without removing the lower trim panels -- a little finesse and a good hand is all it takes.


    best, whit
    Me a mere mortal - took me 2 hours - most of the time getting the DARN trim panel back on!
    1995 BMW 525i w/139K miles, EAT Chip - (Gone)
    07 525i 22K, 07 328xi (41K)
    1982 Mazda RX-7 w/147K miles (Back again!)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle, Washington USA
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Anytime Greg...
    Josh



    1990 BMW 525iA
    2000 Toyota Corolla CE
    2007 Toyota Echo

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