Need a Suspension/Front End Rebuild

[632 Regal]

get the lemforder sway bar links! At least if you have to go back into the suspension you can hold the stud with a wrench, cant do the with the Mehle and need to torch them off....personal experience.

What I did so I was close on alignment was get the car on ramps, try to keep the wheels straight, IE: dont turn the wheels after on top the ramps.

remove both ends of the tie rods, then the centerlink. remove in 1 piece without turning or adjusting. try to chech that there is no side load on anything IE: the parts slip right into the holes without having anything stressed.

install the inner tierods on the new parts (slightly impact them to seize) assemble from the center and adjust the rods to fit straight up. Doing this assures you of alignment and no tearing up of your tires going in for an alingment. I was good and was .05 degrees off....didnt need one but got it anyways.

The thrust arms and lower control arms may cause a real alignment issue so it is best to have that done at an indie or something.

Hope it helps.

[cableface]

Jeff, as always that's what I needed to hear. Thanks

[cableface]

Jeff, my main problem in the front end is when I brake, it feels like the whole front gives. After I stop, I let off the brakes to go and the front end "gives back" in the opposite direction. It's a forward/back movement, not side to side. Which of the component(s) would cause this. I'm asking because I may not be able to change everything all at once and would like to get the most crucial pieces in first.

[Kalevera]

Inspect the front end. The shimmy you're describing can be caused by almost anything. I admire the fact that you're going to do this without any apparent prior experience, but search and read read read before you do anything.

There are a number of threads discussing the diagnostic procedure on the forum, but here are the basics of it. Visually inspect the thrust arm bushings. The rubber cracks and the centers separate. Center link and idler arm bushings can be diagnosed by shaking them against the axis of movement to determine if there's any play. These can be tricky as the pitman arm off of the steering box and idler arm bushing can both give the impression of having a bad center link bushing, when in fact the sloppiness is elsewhere. I check ball joints with a large pair of water pump pliers. Compress the joint and see if there's any play. Just because the dust boot is cracked does not mean that the joint is bad. Bad sway bar link joints can be felt and will usually click when shaking them by hand. As with leaking condensers, blown out shocks will leave a trail of oil and residue around the strut housings. Lift the dust boot if there's any doubt on whether it's leaking -- a blown out shock will definitively leave a slick on the top of the collar nut. The rotors could also be warped, bearings could be bad...any number of things.

best, whit

[MBXB]

Some links and threads from when I did the job last year:

Get a Bently Manual;

Bruno's E34 Site:

http://www.bmwe34.net/

Winston Fong's site:

http://home.comcast.net/~fongman1/
Good detail. Good pics.

Gale's site:

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_26.htm

Good detail; pics;

Bimmerinfo discussion:

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...=5945#poststop


Search the archives, this topic has been discussed a lot


Ask a lot of questions.

Jeff, my main problem in the front end is when I brake, it feels like the whole front gives. After I stop, I let off the brakes to go and the front end "gives back" in the opposite direction. It's a forward/back movement, not side to side. Which of the component(s) would cause this. I'm asking because I may not be able to change everything all at once and would like to get the most crucial pieces in first.

[cableface]

Wow, I have a feeling that those sites are going to help tremendously. I plan to read extensively on this topic as well as ask any questions that come to mind. I should have a week or so before parts begin to arrive so that should buy me some time. Ive always been one to jump in feet first, I just hope that it doesnt bite me this time. At least I have the disposa car as backup if I get in a pickle I was very pleased to see the pictures posted on those sites, they're the first clear pics that I've seen. Everything else has been poor quality black and white and difficult to distinguish what is what. I'm a little less confused now. LOL

I'm sure that everyone will get to know me all too well pretty soon. I think I'll be living on this forum for the next few weeks, maybe years judging from how well I like these cars.

Again, thanks guys.

[BillionPa]

in order:

bleed rear brakes (i wont go into much detail there, here comes the good stuff)

raise car off wheels, remove wheels, pry off wheel hub dust cap
replace wheels, drop car, looses wheel hub nut
raise car again, remove wheels, i would steam clean them at this time.
remove brakes
remove strut assemblies
disassemble them completely
clean them
rebuild with new mounts/shocks/springs/pads/bump stops/wheel hubs
remove swaybar links
remove swaybar
install new swaybar bushing, mounting brackets, mounting nuts
remove and install new upper and lower control arms
loosen all steering linkage bolts
reinstall struts
reinstall swaybar links
reinstall brakes
bleed the front brakes
install wheels, drop car, tighten wheel hub nuts 20 spec (very ver tight, you will need a 1m breaker bar)
raise car, remove wheels, install dust caps, reinstall wheels, torque to spec (i would use new lug nuts on your new hubs)

then do the steering parts, it will be a lot easier since the bolts were loosened when the struts were off.

I would do the rear suspension first before doing the front, since the new parts on the front will make the rear feel way off.

good luck! (i just did all that crap, including new brakes front and rear)

[632 Regal]

as of now I would trust the hamburger parts before Bruck which I have NEVER heard of.

Thanks Jeff, that's pretty clear cut. Another question, has anyone ever heard of a company called Bruck? A seller on ebay says that they are a sister company of Lemforder. I was wondering if he's full of it or not. If they are a sister Co, are they of similar quality?