o2 sensor connector. everywhere else is fine.
Originally Posted by gale
My wife bought an e36 325ic (m50) from a local club member & the car had been sitting for many months & threw the O2 sensor fault code & failed the HC emissions test the 1st time. The shop said O2 sensors rarely go bad (I did not know that) & to simply unplug & re-seat the sensor connector & the fault usually goes away. I did that & reset the code memory & sure enough, it worked! I had her take it out & "drive it like you stole it" & sure enough it passed with all numbers down in the low zero's.
Guess sometimes the connectors can get corroded from spray-washing the engine. Yet another place to use Stabilant 22 -- or maybe it just needed to have a fresh tank of gas & driven hard (& not put away wet)![]()
gale
92 735i 5-spd, turbo project finally underway!
o2 sensor connector. everywhere else is fine.
Originally Posted by gale
Last edited by Bill R.; 09-14-2007 at 11:22 PM.
Thanks Bill, good to know. I never would have suspected they'd route air intake to the O2 sensor thru the connector/wires -- guess it makes sense somehow.
BTW, would you have a source for a comprehensive repair/instruction/troubleshooting for the e36 convertible top mechanism. I gather they're rather problematic & most people end up putting them up & down manually. Bentley's is lacking, as usual.
Cheers!
Don
e36 top file.
Originally Posted by gale
From what I read it sounds like the O2 sensor is getting its reference oxygen supply via the harness. Hmmm…. I would imagine that zip-ties on the harness would impede the flow as well?
SOLD!
that is what it sounds like, but my new O2 sensors came with zip ties in the package! (Bosch)
Thanks Bill!Originally Posted by Bill R.
gale
92 735i 5-spd, turbo project finally underway!
.Originally Posted by gale
bill might have something to say about this, gale, but i've used this on a couple of dying oxygen sensors now, and its brought them back to functional life (along with a couple of MPG). this is completely winfred's procedure, he mentioned it on this board, but i can't find the specific post to cite. he says to use a wire brush to clean the body up (i do it to a shine) along with a pick to clean the slots/holes. he then uses a torch to blow heat it up well, then blow it out with compressed air. i don't have shop gasses, so i use propane and heat the sensor until "sparks" stop burning off (if you remember from college chem I, they probably had you (everybody) heat up sticks soaked in ions until ion characteristic "sparks" come off of them. i just heated the sensor up until it stopped throwing off these "sparks". then hit it with the compressed air.
then again, this was done on cars that had nice, un-rusted oxygen sensors that came off in 1-2 minutes without lubricants. might not be worth it if the sensor is stuck.
If you use a wire brush, be sure to use a soft brass-bristle brush. A steel brush could go right thru the platimum plating. Also, I think there must be more than 1 style of O2 sensor leads. My old factory one from the e32 has about 4 feet of cable which are nothing more than 4 separate teflon insulated wires, covered with an outer black PVC shrink tube, which lacks about 1/2" from each end. The connector to the engine/chassis wire harness is nothing more than a plastic "Cannon" connector of sorts, with the pins simply crimped onto the ends of the wires.
The new e36 sensor has a short 12" cable which has a white teflon outer jacket sealed at each end of the O2 sensor and the connector. I guess that must be the type that the TIS cautions against using Stablilant 22a. There's no way my older e32 4-footer is a leak path that could clog a reference bleed.
gale
92 735i 5-spd, turbo project finally underway!