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Thread: a/c charge

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    North SF bay area Delta region
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    211

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsteyer
    Hi-
    I just replaced my leaking condenser. I charged the system and the a/c workes but I have to wonder:
    1. there has to be air in the circuit
    2. so how does one proberly refill/charge an a/c system from scratch?
    Thanks
    I would stop using your AC till it is fixed correctly.
    Air and moisture in the system will turn into real nasty acids when mixed with refrigerants. Or moisture can freeze up componets.

    I worked with one guy who was a real stickler when evacuating the AC system, after all leaks were verified and fixed he purged and pressure tested system with Nitrogen.
    He would heat the AC system componets up around 110 Deg. F , To help draw out more moisture, solvents from the system, when pulling Vac.
    When system is being evacuated ,the vacuum causes any moisture to boil and turn to vapor and get sucked out of system.
    Then would purge the system with R12 vapor(or what ever was needed) a couple times, and do a final deeep evacuation for 30-40 Min.
    Probably over kill, but done to the **** !!
    1991 525i M50 5 Sp.
    N.California

    America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed. -Eleanor Roosevelt

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    VT
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    thanks for all replys.
    Now I understand why they charge $100 to do it.

  3. #13
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    Dec 2005
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    I had it done .... they used one of those automated machines. Sucks the system dry in 20 minutes, then charges it. Afterwards they said that I had high pressure on the return side caused by some kind of "blockage". What's the deal with that though, the ac works fine. Did theyt just want more work?
    thanks ....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    811

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    High pressure on the low side is an indicator of a bad expansion valve commonly.

    If the AC gets nice and cold, and the person who worked on it was not very knowledgable, I would not worry about it. The high and low side pressures are dependant on ambiant temperature, interior temperature, blower fan speed, air movement through the condensor and RPM. Its not hard to read gauges, it just takes experience. Expansion valve systems can run higher low side pressures at times compared to orifice systems like what Chevy uses.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    North SF bay area Delta region
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    211

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsteyer
    I had it done .... they used one of those automated machines. Sucks the system dry in 20 minutes, then charges it. Afterwards they said that I had high pressure on the return side caused by some kind of "blockage". What's the deal with that though, the ac works fine. Did theyt just want more work?
    thanks ....
    Did you change the receiver drier too ?
    A 20 Min. evacuation sounds kind of short....
    Maybe the expansion valve is getting slightly iced up...... If you got a new receiver drier it should store a small amount of moisture in the system eventually....
    If it's blowing in the low 40's (F) I would'nt sweat it.
    (what a lame pun !!!!!
    1991 525i M50 5 Sp.
    N.California

    America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed. -Eleanor Roosevelt

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Maryland, Virginia, D.C.
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    705

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    Winfred, your signature creeps me out man... Really.. Creeps me out.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    VT
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    Thanks ... I had it done at a Midas shop, and the guy wasn't an ac specialist or anything like that. He, more or less, just ran the machine. What temp should I expect to see at the output register run the ac full blast with recycle air on.
    thanks ....

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    811

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    Ignore anything a Midas "tech" says. With recirc on and at high idle, it should be cold enough to make your hand ache when held infront of the vents. Low40's or high 30's, I forget what temp the system shuts off at.

  9. #19
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    Dec 2005
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    VT
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    Thanks ... I checked the output temp at the dash register with a digital thermometer. The low reading was 43 degrees. So I guess the system must be OK. Thanks again for your input, it set my mind at ease.

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