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Thread: Rear Windows Don't Work

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    180

    Default Rear Windows Don't Work

    OK, now that I've got the brakes and headlights done, I'd like to get the rear windows working. When I bought the car a couple of months ago, they worked fine. Salesman said the dealer had replaced the window switch. All fine and good. Then a couple of days later, they quit, so I brought the car in to get that issue cleared up. Literally, the car's in the service bay for about 5 minutes when they come to get me. The salesman explains that the switch is fine, they just tapped on the panels on the rear doors in a certain place to make the connection work and the windows are fine. So, in order to avoid spending any more money, I take the car and go on my merry way.

    Sooooo. Now that they're not working again, and assuming that the switch is OK, I'm guessing corrosion or a loose connection in the harness on the door itself, yah? Is it worth peeling of the door panels to check the harness? Anything else I should look at? Front windows work fine.

    When I try to roll down the rear windows, the lighted switch goes dark and I hear a relay click, but the glass doesn't move, if that helps narrow things down a little.

    Thanks in advance, as always.

    -Zak-
    1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
    1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
    2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
    2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    try smacking the hell out of the door while holding the switch, sometimes works better with the door panel off so you can apply the percussive evaluation directly to the motor, if this works run the window a lot and it may or may not keep working depending on how bad the crud was that was breaking the connection in the motor
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    180

    Default

    OK, so we're saying it's probably the motor and not a harness or other lead? Shoot.

    I'll take a swing at it today. Thanks.
    1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
    1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
    2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
    2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    104

    Default

    M3 Engine swap? ehhh.... Why?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    it's a direct swap a **** load more torque and 50 more hp stock

    Quote Originally Posted by sirius_GTO
    M3 Engine swap? ehhh.... Why?
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    180

    Default

    Sorry for the late update; I took the trim off of one of the rear doors to find the motor. Smacked it with a screwdriver handle, worked like a charm. Buttoned it up, worked a couple of days, then quit again. Reached behind me and used the side of my fist on the right spot on the door, worked like a charm. *shrug* I'll just resign myself to smacking it every now and then.

    And yeah, more torque. But that's not going to happen for a long, long time. Other, less "just for fun for me" projects will take priority, like saving for 3 girls' college / weddings / etc.

    -Zak-
    1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
    1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
    2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
    2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    811

    Default

    You need a window lift motor, banging the door is the fast and dirty method of diagnosing this. the connectors don't come loose as a general rule.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    in 10 years i may have seen a half dozen to a dozen honest to god worn out window motors, what usually gets them is crud that breaks the connection between the brushes and the comm or the drain clogs up and it rusts solid, a good wack and lots of use can sometimes get them completely functional again

    Quote Originally Posted by joshua43214
    You need a window lift motor, banging the door is the fast and dirty method of diagnosing this. the connectors don't come loose as a general rule.
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    180

    Default

    Yeah, when I got the trim off the guts appeared to be pretty much immaculate. I try to make a point of rolling them all the way down and back up once a day; we'll see if that clears it up. Thanks, y'all.

    PS - Kick-ass sig. Rowan Atkinson is the bomb.
    1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
    1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
    2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
    2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission

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