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Thread: Problems pressing in rear subframe mounts - any suggestions?

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  1. #1
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    just to take your mind off your present problems,did you get your obc problems sorted?
    I have my fingers crosed you can get the is back on the road soon!
    Gone but not forgotten

  2. #2
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    Dude, freezing the mounts shrinks them down; this should be the trick you need. Heat the subframe itself with a portable butane blowtorch, just before installing. A search of the forum will find this procedure, it really sounded the business to me, the guy that did it popped them out with special (round, slightly smaller diameter than the bushing) wooden blocks using the wieght of the car to push it out against the floorpan. Then froze the new bushings overnight and heated the mounting frame on each side before doing this. Do this right and all should be well. The very best of the very best of luck there... Nick

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  3. #3
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    Default Tried the wooden block method - minor success

    At least I got the new one that was stuck halfway back out with the wooden blocks.
    I have the entire weight of rear of the car sitting on the wooden blocks I made up on top of the original mount and it still won't budge. At least with it stressed I can see the mount is actually broken so this project is not a waste of time.
    I will explore some rubber grease and freezing the new mounts before attempting to put the new ones in, its just way too tight.
    Not happy to use the heat torch method if possible, the fuel lines run right past the mount which kinda worries me a bit.

    John

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by John 535is (Sydney)
    At least I got the new one that was stuck halfway back out with the wooden blocks.
    I have the entire weight of rear of the car sitting on the wooden blocks I made up on top of the original mount and it still won't budge. At least with it stressed I can see the mount is actually broken so this project is not a waste of time.
    I will explore some rubber grease and freezing the new mounts before attempting to put the new ones in, its just way too tight.
    Not happy to use the heat torch method if possible, the fuel lines run right past the mount which kinda worries me a bit.

    John
    Good point. Forgot about those suckers, there are brake lines too I think, but none of them will explode unless they get real hot. Beware the plastic clips too!

    Perhaps shield them using some alfoil over a piece of gyprock or the like. Make sure the shiny side faces the heat on both sides, ie stick the foil to it on both sides first. If possible use a 2nd piece of gyprock or timber panel on the back side.

    lines

    3mm timber
    al foil
    8mm gyprock
    al foil

    heat

    That'd make a damn good insulator. You don't need to heat the metal a great deal.

    Asbestos is kinda cool as an insulator if you can find some that isn't too flakey... 'cough, cough wheeeeez'... best not to try this tho, at least- not at home!
    Last edited by genphreak; 05-21-2006 at 06:13 AM.

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  5. #5
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    I'm very intersted in how you go with this John. I have a subframe bush puller coming in about 10 days borrowed from "Hector" on here. Did you get bruno's subframe plates John?

  6. #6
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    Default I got Bruno's plates and new mounts from Patrick

    Let me know when the puller turns up. If the car is still on blocks I may need your help.
    I got the plates from Bruno, but when I pulled the drivers side mount apart I could see the rubber mount was actually broken, so I got Patrick from BMA to send new mounts as well, plus dogbones, sway bar mounts etc.

    I also scored some new Zender springs so I may take the opportunity to pull the shocks out and replace the HIOP lowered springs with new Zender lowered. Also thinking of sending the Bilstiens in for a check. i really didn't want this to be a big project, but its kinda expanding.

    John

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by John 535is (Sydney)
    Let me know when the puller turns up. If the car is still on blocks I may need your help. I got the plates from Bruno, but when I pulled the drivers side mount apart I could see the rubber mount was actually broken, so I got Patrick from BMA to send new mounts as well, plus dogbones, sway bar mounts etc. I also scored some new Zender springs so I may take the opportunity to pull the shocks out and replace the HIOP lowered springs with new Zender lowered. Also thinking of sending the Bilstiens in for a check. i really didn't want this to be a big project, but its kinda expanding. John
    What are HIOPs? Billies are usually fine unless they are obviously failing: I had the same discussion with the guys at Heasman's about the ones Kriss and I installed recently.

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  8. #8
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    yeah - it should be here in about 10 days. The rubber lubricant looks like the trick for the bushes. Rear springs are easy, as nick mentioned we removed them on his car a while ago.

  9. #9
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    Default HIOPs - german springs

    Quote Originally Posted by genphreak
    What are HIOPs? Billies are usually fine unless they are obviously failing: I had the same discussion with the guys at Heasman's about the ones Kriss and I installed recently.
    I hadn't heard of them before I got the car, so i looked it up on the web. What are Heasemans like to deal with ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by John 535is (Sydney)
    I hadn't heard of them before I got the car, so i looked it up on the web. What are Heasemans like to deal with ?
    I see, like these ones. I wish some of these suspension manufacturers would market their products on the web properly. They are basically saying "we're too lazy to market or engage with potential consumers. We're so great we're just gonna sell our **** thru existing shops and specialists". (Rant over, apologies.)

    John, Heasmans are an excellent suspension shop. Highly experienced staff, run by Peter. They are quite reaonsable, but not cheap- as with anywhere get a quote always. Rates are somehting like $80/hour. They know BMs well and work on a lot of exotics, notably things like a heavly modified AWD Jensen Interceptor II running a supercharged 454 big block which I saw when last there. (Its a Targa rally car). Bilstein distributor is in the same building there at Tempe. May even be affiliated somehow, not sure. The distributor will look after your shocks if you drop them in, but it's handy if you'd prefer to pay someone to remove and replace them as the workshop is next door (and is highly reliable). I don't reccommend many, but do reccommend them.

    A mate of mine used to rebuild shocks for them in their workshop and also at race meets- that might also be a good place to do get it done you sure can't miss their mobile workshop at the tracks. It goes to the formula car race meets I think, perhaps others where they adjust shocks all day long for the competitors. Nick
    Last edited by genphreak; 05-21-2006 at 07:56 PM.

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