like toothpicks, they shear right at the pivot.. the craftsmen ratchet 1/2 will actually take more abuse when using long extensions.. i mean really long
Originally Posted by Tiger
like toothpicks, they shear right at the pivot.. the craftsmen ratchet 1/2 will actually take more abuse when using long extensions.. i mean really long
Originally Posted by Tiger
Last edited by Bill R.; 09-14-2007 at 11:21 PM.
Heh. I feel for you. When I did mine, the rear gave so much trouble... especially the left side because of the exhaust. So little room for leverage there!
some of you.....
Originally Posted by Qube
keep on truck'n
And then he eats the pieces with his frosted flakes.Originally Posted by Bill R.
ProZak, is the light shimmy gone now that you have replaced the one rotor?
You already know this but . . . invest in some WD40.
and then get an impact wrench![]()
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=4460850581
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7618860129
It's a requirement for working on 12 year old rusty bolts in MI. I'm sure you will convert soon.
Last edited by azale; 05-12-2006 at 09:40 AM.
Job 14:1 Man born of woman is of few days and full of trouble.
az
Matter of fact, the shimmy is dramatically reduced. I'm looking forward to breaking those bolts loose and getting the shimmy gone when the other rotor is done.Originally Posted by azale
And *wow*, those factory 15" basketweaves are light!![]()
![]()
![]()
1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission
4 feet extension? Boy are you a weaklin!Well, I am not you as a pro mechanic... I owned mine for nearly 14 years or so now... I never broke mine.
You are handy with mig welder... why niot weld that sucker in position you wanted. You know this will take even more abuse than that ratchet you are using now... but then again, you wanted ratcheting part.