Inside rim of tyre wearing too quick...?
I have a 92 535is running on 235, 40, 18s which I know is less than idea but it looks great. Problem is the inside of one of the rear tyres has worn very quick and needs replacing, therefore both have to be replaced to keep it balanced. Any ideas why its worn so quick, a bush or something? Cheers
4 Grand Master
Have you been sticking your foot on the wheel when trying to stop the car? If this is wearing the rim down, try fixing your brakes... you don't ahve to open the door OR stick your foot on a rim!Originally Posted by Jake Casson
Seriosuly; just get a wheel alignment and check the measurements. The guy that does it will be able to show you what is wrong if anything is...
Join the Aussie 540i LE yahoo forum
08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!
Had all the wheel alignments done, the bloke did mention something about it but cant remember what he said as was over a year ago. So the tracking is all fine.
Major Contributor
The rears should be worn evenly on the inside of the tire. It is pidgeon-toed(/ /-----\ \) a bit so that you have full contact with the pavement when pulling high gravity turns. Since yours are not worn evenly on the inside, you should have a BMW mechanic check the camber/alignment. And you define quickly as 1 year? Or is that a bad assumption.
Can't really align the rear, as I've been told. But you can adjust it. Hell if I know the difference. I'm not a mechanic, so take what I say with a grain of dirt. Differential semantics to me. Anywho, to sum up. See a BMW certified mechanic shop and see why only one side is worn so it don't happen again.
They have a few mechanics on this board, so I suggest you wait for their judgement before forming a hypothesis.
Last edited by ThoreauHD; 05-07-2006 at 05:20 AM.
Grand Master
Generally the rear shouldn't need alignment unless parts are bent so the fix may be to get new suspension parts... They do sell off-center trailing arm bushings to tweak things but like Henry David, I don't know how they measure/apply these to fix it.
Robin
72 Chevy K10
01 E39 M5
Major Contributor
E34's are built with negative camer in the rears. Camber is the angle of the wheel measured verticaly through the hub as it relates to the top and bottom of the wheel. Or in other words. when the top of the tire is farther inward than the bottom of the wheel, you have negative camber.
On cornering the G forces combined with body roll will force the wheels to tilt outwards. Negative camber, makes the wheels tilt into vertical, providing more tire contact area.
It is normal for the inner tread to wear a bit faster than the outer tread. when driving the tire will compress more on the inner tread allowing contact with the outer tread. When you do anything to stiffen the sidewall, you accelerate inner tread wear, bigger rims, over inflation, using runflats or high performance tires will cause more uneven wear.
Also, camber is ride height dependant, when you lower the body, you increase negative camber, increaseing tire wear.
Worn control arm bushings will also increase negative camber, as will saggy spings.
If you have one side that is wearing noticably faster than the other, either you are only turning in one direction all the time, or something is worn out. Uneven tire wear will not have to come from camber, but can come from incorrect toe as well. Normaly this will be noticeable as a tracking problem unless the front was aligned to compensate.
The pic of your car looks like it has been lowered. It possible that the problem is the combination of parts you are using, or something is worn. I would crawl under there and look for anything worn out, but it would be really cool if you could dig up the aligement sheet from when the job was done so we can see the numbers.
Green Beret Special Ops
check your dogbones, and the trailing arm bushings. Look for a bent trailing arm too. The rears do wear more on the insides but both should wear evenly.
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Right, I have the numbers here after the alignment by a top UK performance centre on the best machines.
Final readings,
Caster 7 44' on left and 8 13' on right
Camber -0 16' and -0 20'
The can is a sport model so is 30mm lower as standard and runs on BMW parts.
I did crash it a few years ago so this could be something to do with that, was all jiged out and parts replaced as needed. Many thanks
2 Grand Master
My brother has an e28 on which he discovered the caster (toe) to be out. He fitted adjustable camber/toe plates to correct the problem.
Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
southwest WA
Major Contributor
Caster petains to the front wheels. It is the realationship between the upper and lower pivots. Or how far forward/rearward the upper pivot point is compared to the lower pivot point. Its primary purpose is to cause the wheels to return the straight ahead position. It also affects handling on cornering.
The print out should have provided rear camber and toe. front camber, caster, and toe.
Do you have the rear wheels numbers?
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