Inside rim of tyre wearing too quick...?
I have a 92 535is running on 235, 40, 18s which I know is less than idea but it looks great. Problem is the inside of one of the rear tyres has worn very quick and needs replacing, therefore both have to be replaced to keep it balanced. Any ideas why its worn so quick, a bush or something? Cheers
4 Grand Master
Have you been sticking your foot on the wheel when trying to stop the car? If this is wearing the rim down, try fixing your brakes... you don't ahve to open the door OR stick your foot on a rim!Originally Posted by Jake Casson
Seriosuly; just get a wheel alignment and check the measurements. The guy that does it will be able to show you what is wrong if anything is...
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08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!
Had all the wheel alignments done, the bloke did mention something about it but cant remember what he said as was over a year ago. So the tracking is all fine.
Major Contributor
The rears should be worn evenly on the inside of the tire. It is pidgeon-toed(/ /-----\ \) a bit so that you have full contact with the pavement when pulling high gravity turns. Since yours are not worn evenly on the inside, you should have a BMW mechanic check the camber/alignment. And you define quickly as 1 year? Or is that a bad assumption.
Can't really align the rear, as I've been told. But you can adjust it. Hell if I know the difference. I'm not a mechanic, so take what I say with a grain of dirt. Differential semantics to me. Anywho, to sum up. See a BMW certified mechanic shop and see why only one side is worn so it don't happen again.
They have a few mechanics on this board, so I suggest you wait for their judgement before forming a hypothesis.
Last edited by ThoreauHD; 05-07-2006 at 05:20 AM.
Grand Master
Generally the rear shouldn't need alignment unless parts are bent so the fix may be to get new suspension parts... They do sell off-center trailing arm bushings to tweak things but like Henry David, I don't know how they measure/apply these to fix it.
Robin
72 Chevy K10
01 E39 M5
Major Contributor
E34's are built with negative camer in the rears. Camber is the angle of the wheel measured verticaly through the hub as it relates to the top and bottom of the wheel. Or in other words. when the top of the tire is farther inward than the bottom of the wheel, you have negative camber.
On cornering the G forces combined with body roll will force the wheels to tilt outwards. Negative camber, makes the wheels tilt into vertical, providing more tire contact area.
It is normal for the inner tread to wear a bit faster than the outer tread. when driving the tire will compress more on the inner tread allowing contact with the outer tread. When you do anything to stiffen the sidewall, you accelerate inner tread wear, bigger rims, over inflation, using runflats or high performance tires will cause more uneven wear.
Also, camber is ride height dependant, when you lower the body, you increase negative camber, increaseing tire wear.
Worn control arm bushings will also increase negative camber, as will saggy spings.
If you have one side that is wearing noticably faster than the other, either you are only turning in one direction all the time, or something is worn out. Uneven tire wear will not have to come from camber, but can come from incorrect toe as well. Normaly this will be noticeable as a tracking problem unless the front was aligned to compensate.
The pic of your car looks like it has been lowered. It possible that the problem is the combination of parts you are using, or something is worn. I would crawl under there and look for anything worn out, but it would be really cool if you could dig up the aligement sheet from when the job was done so we can see the numbers.
Green Beret Special Ops
check your dogbones, and the trailing arm bushings. Look for a bent trailing arm too. The rears do wear more on the insides but both should wear evenly.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Right, I have the numbers here after the alignment by a top UK performance centre on the best machines.
Final readings,
Caster 7 44' on left and 8 13' on right
Camber -0 16' and -0 20'
The can is a sport model so is 30mm lower as standard and runs on BMW parts.
I did crash it a few years ago so this could be something to do with that, was all jiged out and parts replaced as needed. Many thanks
4 Grand Master
Your numbers are way out. Needed to have been fixed back then- wear is to be expected running like this. If that low from factory the car would already have non-concentric bushings and the rear wheel settings will measure differently to standard suspension e34s. This would be the case if you have real M-technik suspension or an actual M-car. Beware, 'sport' suspension (much more common) would not have them (but I might be wrong). There are therefore 3 sets of rear aligning measures applicable to an e34, stock, sport and M-technik. Beware though, as fitting and replacing non-concentric bushings is a specialised job for a pro who knows how.
Your rear wheels will always be out of alighment if you have 30mm lowered suspension and standard bushings. This results in accelerated tyre wear on the inside of each rear tyre. Just swap the tyres around on the rims 1/2 way through their life but most people live happily with this.
The reason for your poor wear is definately the crash unles something has failed on one side only. As Joshua said, check all components for damage/wear/faulty operation. If your 'crash' impacted either rear wheel it could just be a bent trailing arm. However this would have been fixed (so perhaps done already) by any half decent repairer- this is well understood by most smash-repairers as most cars have similar problems and all BMW rear ends are designed to bend the trailing arm before anything else. Easy fix if they did not reaplce the arm, but depending on the damage adn what they did do to repair it, it may be something worse...
Remember, the only way you can adjust the rear suspension is; confirm all parts are working to specification and then fit non-concentric bushes OR change ride-height (ie by changing springs or fabricating spring spacers). Making physical adjustments (ie bending the structural parts themselves) is not just inadvisable, it is probably impractical or risky and/or illegal. There are no adjustments you can make to the rear suspension any other way- and the front suspension only has toe adjustments (ie by turning the tie rods).
I know it is hard to believe but it is one of the simplest cars on the road alignment -wise.
Last edited by genphreak; 05-07-2006 at 06:46 PM.
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08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!
2 Grand Master
My brother has an e28 on which he discovered the caster (toe) to be out. He fitted adjustable camber/toe plates to correct the problem.
Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
southwest WA
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