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Thread: MB Quart installation woes

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Homestead Florida
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    78

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    Jon have some one use an old speaker and test each set of wires because i had the same problem with the wire diagram but for the most part its pretty accurate.
    94 540i
    6.5 Boston Acustics
    5.5 Fosgate seperates
    4-Volfanhag 1000w 12's YEAH LOTS OF OVER KILL
    1600w Volfanhag 4 ch BUT HITS LIKE A MACK TRUCK
    2- 1000 Volfanhag 2 ch & CLEAR AS A BELL

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    PA
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    5,403

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbmw1
    Jon have some one use an old speaker and test each set of wires because i had the same problem with the wire diagram but for the most part its pretty accurate.
    94 540i
    6.5 Boston Acustics
    5.5 Fosgate seperates
    4-Volfanhag 1000w 12's YEAH LOTS OF OVER KILL
    1600w Volfanhag 4 ch BUT HITS LIKE A MACK TRUCK
    2- 1000 Volfanhag 2 ch & CLEAR AS A BELL


    TO ALL THOSE USING 6.5" SPEAKERS... HOW?!?!?!


    I am having a HARD time (to say the least) determining how to mount these MB Quart 6.5" speakers into the 5.25" kick panels. Please guys, I am trying to complete by the weekend... I have cross overs wired entirely... I need more info!


    Also, is it possible to bridge a factory head unit? I am not going to run rear speakers and was wondering if it was possible to bridge front and back left and front and back rights together.... yay or nay?


    Again, how are you guys getting the 6.5" into the 5.25"?
    Last edited by Jon K; 03-25-2004 at 06:01 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    4,894

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    Cut the hole into your panel... surface mount it. Easy job with a tin snip and some saw.

    Do not bridge your head unit... if you want to use it... just hook it up as normal.

  4. #4
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    PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger
    Cut the hole into your panel... surface mount it. Easy job with a tin snip and some saw.

    Do not bridge your head unit... if you want to use it... just hook it up as normal.

    Nah, no cutting for me. Its behind the dead pedal, that wouldn't work. I got creative... as usual.




  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Phx AZ
    Posts
    195

    Default You can't bridge your HU, and about your 6.5's...

    You can't bridge HU's. They don't have the space for the circuitry nor the heat sink neccesary to disipate the heat. Also, you should make some adapter rings out of some MDF or Hardboard for your speakers. Your speaker should be solidly mounted. That plumbers strap you used will allow the speaker vibrate and compromise your sound quality. The best way to mount those is in some custom kick panels. If you don't want to cut your oem kicks, I doubt you will want to fab the custom kicks.

    These are pics of mine in progress, they are further along now. However, I am still positioning my speakers and they still require alot of finish work. They look pretty rough in these pics. The upside of these is, you get the tweeter in the same plane as the mid. This eliminates phasing issues between the 2 speakers. Also, the kick panel is the best location to get as close as possible to equi-distant speakers. You can aim them up towards the cabin, instead of at your feet. Finally, you create a solid enclosure that will help boost your mid-bass response. I also run a second set of tweeters on my dash to raise the soundstage. I attenuate those speakers with the rear channels of my HU. I currently have my rears speakers disconnected. If you get interested, search sounddomain.com forums for custom kick panels you can really learn alot. Did you get your wiring sorted out?

    BTW, I lost my dead pedal, but I have 2nd sets of OEM kicks with another set of speakers. If I want the dead pedal back for a long trip, I can just swap the kick panels. Though, I have never done it.....





    Last edited by AZ_Jason_S; 03-25-2004 at 10:09 PM.

  6. #6
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    Dec 2003
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    PA
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    5,403

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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ_Jason_S
    You can't bridge HU's. They don't have the space for the circuitry nor the heat sink neccesary to disipate the heat. Also, you should make some adapter rings out of some MDF or Hardboard for your speakers. Your speaker should be solidly mounted. That plumbers strap you used will allow the speaker vibrate and compromise your sound quality. The best way to mount those is in some custom kick panels. If you don't want to cut your oem kicks, I doubt you will want to fab the custom kicks.

    These are pics of mine in progress, they are further along now. However, I am still positioning my speakers and they still require alot of finish work. They look pretty rough in these pics. The upside of these is, you get the tweeter in the same plane as the mid. This eliminates phasing issues between the 2 speakers. Also, the kick panel is the best location to get as close as possible to equi-distant speakers. You can aim them up towards the cabin, instead of at your feet. Finally, you create a solid enclosure that will help boost your mid-bass response. I also run a second set of tweeters on my dash to raise the soundstage. I attenuate those speakers with the rear channels of my HU. I currently have my rears speakers disconnected. If you get interested, search sounddomain.com forums for custom kick panels you can really learn alot. Did you get your wiring sorted out?

    BTW, I lost my dead pedal, but I have 2nd sets of OEM kicks with another set of speakers. If I want the dead pedal back for a long trip, I can just swap the kick panels. Though, I have never done it.....






    I did get the wiring sorted out. The way i have rolled the plumbing wrap, the speakers have extremely little, to what i consider zero give.

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