Cause if not then thats the problem I have right now... after connecting the wiring harness back in place. Everything is connected and the only things Im not sure about are those two.
Cause if not then thats the problem I have right now... after connecting the wiring harness back in place. Everything is connected and the only things Im not sure about are those two.
Last edited by ArtemLepilov; 04-13-2006 at 02:40 PM.
it will crank with or without the sensors
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
The starting circuit has nothing to do with the CPS's. You may not start the car if they are switched. The the starter will run if the relays work.
'01 540it, 6/01
'03 325i 5 speed, 9/02
'10 535ix. 9/09
'10 mini 6 speed
'15 mini countryman 6 speed
****. I guess I need to figure this newly developed problem out now
Wont start, wont do anything when the key is turned... No sounds from the starter - all wires that go to starter were connected, big ones to the positive, I never removed negative, and I double checked - there is voltage on the positive lead to the starter. The starter itself worked just yesterday.
Only possible mess up is the smaller wires to the starter, but I am 99% sure i connected them right - I connected the one with the smaller O-ring connector to the smaller 8MM nut thing and the larger one to the larger 10MM nut thing.
-Artem
The started positive lead is connected directly to the battery. The smaller wire trigger the solenoid to turb the starter on. Check that wire for 12 volts when the ignition is at start.
'01 540it, 6/01
'03 325i 5 speed, 9/02
'10 535ix. 9/09
'10 mini 6 speed
'15 mini countryman 6 speed
will do that now..
-Artem
Tested - no voltage seemed to come out of the smaller connector, also - i tried jumping 12V from the battery to the starter connector, result was no difference - in theiry, the starter should have cranked, this way - I jumped 12V to it, nothing happened.
-Artem
12v to the larger of the two small connectors on the starter should engauge the starter, the smaller terminal shuts the down parts of the car while cranking to reduce the current draw on the system by activating the load reduction relay/relays
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
I have a 1989 535im. I was able to use the 10mm lug .You would run a wire on the solenoid and run a up and tie it off by the jumper start lug for a temporary fix. You'll have to pop the hood every time to start it though then tape it so it won't short on anything. I tried the top one the bentley manual talked about first but it just made the starter spin and not engage the bendix. I had a problem with a second add on alarm system. Do you have power at the starter relay or at the ignition switch in the cranking position? Well, hope you find it took me about a week to find my problem. I got health problems though and can only work for short periods at a time and some times not for days. Hope this helps. I only had one person reply to me, but this is a complex issue.Originally Posted by ArtemLepilov
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There is a terminal next to diagnostic connector for battery "+" connection, it eliminates the trouble of connecting to the starter. You have to use this terminal for jump starting. Bentley manual says that you have to turn fan blower on (or something turned on) in order to avoid damage to the electrical system...Originally Posted by ArtemLepilov
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