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Thread: Need help with driver side front window

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Voorhees, NJ
    Posts
    162

    Default Need help with driver side front window

    It sure has been a while since I last posted. In October 2005 my son, Sean, totaled his 1996 Mitsubishi 3000 GT. I have since given him my 1992 525i. I put some bucks in the car. Rebuilt the transmission, new radiator and lines, fixed the front end, new tires and FINALLY had that insidious oil leak fixed emenating from the oil cannister. The car leaks nothing now.

    However, I have a new problem. I fixed the door brake on the front drivers door. Now the window glass has some how detached itself from the window mechanism. I have the window up now. But if you try to roll it down it gets cock eyed and I am not sure how to fix it. Any remedies out therre guys? I sure would appreciate any help

    Also, my son wants to put 18 inch M parrallel wheels and tires on the car. I have read a bunch of cautionary threads about tire size and I am against it. Tell me why I am write or wrong.

    I just turned 59 and I am still a car nut and a BMW nut. But I can be taught. I just need some advice about the window glass.

    Al Gray

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    broward county FL
    Posts
    24

    Default

    The window detachment I'll look into because I don't remember if it is seated or epoxied on the E34, but as for the wheels are they staggard or all one size?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

    Default

    Hi Al,

    The regulator uses two arms to move a set of white plastic sliders that each have their own metal track at the bottom of the window. It's quite common for them to break, either because the window is under too much stress, or the plastic fatigues over time. The metal clip that retains the ball jointed regulator arm in the plastic clip can also pop out and disjoin the two.

    Remove the door panel and have a look.

    I'll get a few pictures up...

    Alright, photoshop is acting up, so I didn't edit these down and they're about a meg a piece.

    When reinstalling the clip (#3), use a set of channel locks to seat the clip -- if the clip isn't fully seated, the jointed end will pop out of the plastic slider within a few lifts of the window.

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr1.jpg

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr2.jpg

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr3.jpg

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr4.jpg



    best, whit
    Last edited by Kalevera; 04-02-2006 at 06:01 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Voorhees, NJ
    Posts
    162

    Default The wheels will be all one size

    Quote Originally Posted by RTLoui
    The window detachment I'll look into because I don't remember if it is seated or epoxied on the E34, but as for the wheels are they staggard or all one size?

    Probably an aftermarket knockoff. I am concerned because the wheels dent easily if you hit a pot hole.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Voorhees, NJ
    Posts
    162

    Default Sounds like I need the plastic sliders.

    Whit,

    Thanks for the quick response. Does BMA sell these white plastic sliders? Right now, I am so tired and pissed that I am just putting everything back. I have had these door panels off before but I just found out again what a pain in the ass they are to put on and take off until you remember the little tricks. Thanks for your help.

    Al


    Quote Originally Posted by lowell
    Hi Al,

    The regulator uses two arms to move a set of white plastic sliders that each have their own metal track at the bottom of the window. It's quite common for them to break, either because the window is under too much stress, or the plastic fatigues over time. The metal clip that retains the ball jointed regulator arm in the plastic clip can also pop out and disjoin the two.

    Remove the door panel and have a look.

    I'll get a few pictures up...

    Alright, photoshop is acting up, so I didn't edit these down and they're about a meg a piece.

    When reinstalling the clip (#3), use a set of channel locks to seat the clip -- if the clip isn't fully seated, the jointed end will pop out of the plastic slider within a few lifts of the window.

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr1.jpg

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr2.jpg

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr3.jpg

    http://www.bimmer.info/~lowell/tr4.jpg



    best, whit

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,253

    Default

    Yes, BMA sell them, or the local dealer, cost only a few $

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hockinson, Washington
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    M-pars are sexy.
    Lowered with blue h&r(?) springs, Bilsteins, tint, 19# design 3 injectors, Dual Magnaflow
    southwest WA

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    758

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Al Gray
    Also, my son wants to put 18 inch M parrallel wheels and tires on the car. I have read a bunch of cautionary threads about tire size and I am against it. Tell me why I am write or wrong.
    You are right! I've already replaced an 18" after I hit something. Go for a 17.
    E30 318iS & BMW K1200LT

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Voorhees, NJ
    Posts
    162

    Default I think I have found the problem!

    When I took the door panel off the car I was poking around the bottom of the door and I found this metal clip. Not knowing what it was I put it aside. I received the new wiindow sliders from BMA this week and they had the same type of metal clip on the new sldiers. Obviously one of the old sliders is missing that clip and therefore the window is messed up.

    Thanks for all your help. Another problem solved.



    Quote Originally Posted by Al Gray
    It sure has been a while since I last posted. In October 2005 my son, Sean, totaled his 1996 Mitsubishi 3000 GT. I have since given him my 1992 525i. I put some bucks in the car. Rebuilt the transmission, new radiator and lines, fixed the front end, new tires and FINALLY had that insidious oil leak fixed emenating from the oil cannister. The car leaks nothing now.

    However, I have a new problem. I fixed the door brake on the front drivers door. Now the window glass has some how detached itself from the window mechanism. I have the window up now. But if you try to roll it down it gets cock eyed and I am not sure how to fix it. Any remedies out therre guys? I sure would appreciate any help

    Also, my son wants to put 18 inch M parrallel wheels and tires on the car. I have read a bunch of cautionary threads about tire size and I am against it. Tell me why I am write or wrong.

    I just turned 59 and I am still a car nut and a BMW nut. But I can be taught. I just need some advice about the window glass.

    Al Gray

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wellington,New Zealand
    Posts
    3,868

    Default

    if you do go mpars try to get a genuine set...gulp
    Gone but not forgotten

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