GO FISHING, use SLABSAUCE Fishing Attractant
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 12 of 12

Thread: Yet another coolant bleeding question. (long)

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    North Hollywood, CA
    Posts
    95

    Default

    I filled and bled it at lunch, drove it around a little, bled it again, and everything seemed fine. Time will tell.

    The outlet for the pisser does let water through when I'm bleeding it by leaving the cap off the expansion tank and watching the bubbles, so I know it can't be TOO clogged. Might be worth a look to see if it's not operating quite as it should. When I was bleeding it at lunch, it emitted a steady stream from the pisser, then spat a few bubbles out, then a steady stream, then nothing. I closed it up, bled from the screw, drove it around the block, bled from the screw (this is all with heat on), and all seemed to be well.

    The occasional whiff of coolant smell is when the temp gauge says the car's running normally, and there's no bubbling, boiling, etc. When I opened the bleed screw this morning when the gauge said it was hot, it spat and bubbled and fizzed and steamed, so it was hot indeed. I need to find a place to park with nice clean ground so I can see if the car leaves coolant there - my driveway's no good for that. Although this weekend I was in someone else's driveway and only saw the oil leak at the front of the motor, but that's a different matter...
    Kristuphir
    =======

    '91 535i, 5-speed, black on black
    '59 Ford F-100 camper special
    '77 Honda CB550K (inert)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    North Hollywood, CA
    Posts
    95

    Default

    These all sound like excellent ideas. I'll take a magnifying glass to it this weekend if I have to...

    Quote Originally Posted by joshua43214
    It is possible but unusual to leak air in but not coolant out. Normaly this is caused by a loose hose clamp. The rubber swells enough when warm to seal, then as it cools down, in shrinks and allows air to be drawn in. Normaly it will have signs of seeping arround the clamp. look for crusting and the like arround the hose ends and other coolant seals, like the T-stat cover. I have found that it is good maintainance practice to retorque all the hose clamps at every oil service. Just use a swivel socket and loseen every clamp under the hood 1/4 turn and then tighten it back up a bit. Do this with the hoses hot, and don't over tighten the clamps, they take very little force to clamp properly.

    While you are rooting about under the hood, verify that the radiator is clean of leaves and other obstructions, tip it forward if you can to look between the radiator and the condensor, alot of buggy temp problems are caused by debris.
    Kristuphir
    =======

    '91 535i, 5-speed, black on black
    '59 Ford F-100 camper special
    '77 Honda CB550K (inert)

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Bleeding M50 coolant? No heat.
    By Jon K in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 09-02-2008, 10:51 PM
  2. Tips and Question about Coolant Flush...(long winded)
    By GoldenEagleFan in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-01-2006, 08:12 AM
  3. Question about bleeding coolant
    By Jay 535i in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-09-2006, 01:04 PM
  4. Bleeding coolant ... and getting wet
    By Jay 535i in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-11-2005, 01:22 AM
  5. bleeding coolant sytem
    By foxface in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-06-2004, 11:31 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •