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Thread: M30 Starter Replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NW GA
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    261

    Default M30 Starter Replacement

    Would some of you other DIY guys give me a 1-10 assessment of how difficult a starter remove/replace will be?
    1990 535i 5-sp., except for 16" M-Contours, cd deck, and clear corners, completely stock. 226k and running strong

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NW GA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    A quick followup please, do you replace the starter from the top or the bottom? In other words, when I roll-start my car in the parking lot after work this afternoon and drive home, do I need to pull it up on ramps before I turn it off for the last time prior to replacing the starter? I'm asking because once I get it home and pull into the the driveway I will not be able to roll-start it again before replacing the starter, not will I have a way to get it up on ramps if I don't do so before stopping the engine.
    1990 535i 5-sp., except for 16" M-Contours, cd deck, and clear corners, completely stock. 226k and running strong

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,640

    Default

    My observations...

    - you can do it from the top or the bottom. It's a bit of reach either way. I think having access from the bottom will help. Bottom access is not a requirement however.
    - be very sure to get the power disconnected before you start, mark all the wires you pull from the solenoid, etc.
    - you'll need some reasonable sockets and extensions to get in to the starter bolts, plan to work around the brake booster, manifold brace, oil canister, throttle cables...blah blah blah.

    Generally, this is not a hard job but the access is a bit cramped. I think you'll have 3 nuts to undo for wiring and 2 starter mounting bolts to deal with. Access from the bottom may help you save your back but you'll still have to reach up pretty high.
    Bellevue WA
    90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
    86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Middle England
    Posts
    286

    Default

    I did mine from the top - took me about 50 mins to change - but was not in a hurry.

    Disconnect the battery.
    Remove the 3 terminals (note where they go back).
    Unscrew the coolant header tank and move to one side for access to bolts (no need to drain).
    I used a flat plane ring spanner (needs patience) for one bolt and socket with extensions for the other.

    To get the bolts back in straight can be tricky, as you need to support the weight.
    Everything else is straightforward.
    '90 535iSE Auto (AE+EAT) 123k miles
    '86 F288 69k miles
    '06('89)- PGE 2.0DOHC Turbo
    '03 A160LE 19k miles
    1914 Stellite E2A (no odometer!)
    (+ others I daren't mention here)
    www.pyghtle.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NW GA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    Man, what a bitch of a job. I didn't think the wifey was ever going to finish it. Who designed such a ****ed-up place to put a starter?

    As a future reference for anyone who might need to replace a starter on the m30, the realooem diagram which shows nuts for the two mounting bolts which is incorrect. The starter mounts via machine-threaded bolts, without nuts.

    Good job baby !! Great price and quick service from BMA, thanks also to Patrick.

    Well that makes two things I've had to do th the car outside of normal maintenance in the 5 years I've owned her. First a radiator, now the starter, - What a money-pit.
    Last edited by Mitch90535im; 03-25-2006 at 01:19 PM.
    1990 535i 5-sp., except for 16" M-Contours, cd deck, and clear corners, completely stock. 226k and running strong

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