Central Locking

[Kobe Diesel]

This is the next item on my list, hopefully I can settle this issue within the next few days before I lay the car up (leaving end of month for 3 month trip)

Here's the deal...purchased the car, locks never worked during my ownership.
Cannot operate locks from driver or passenger doors. Trunk locks and unlocks manually, but does not lock the doors. Power windows, w/s fluid & wipers, rear defrost, cabin lights, radio all work. Tried the synchronizing procedure, but cannot even get that far.

Where should I begin troubleshooting - fuses, fusible link? Where are the locking mechanisms located? If need to replace, prices, part #s? Common problems?

Where do I start?

[joshua43214]

Start with your owners manual so you have a clear idea of exactly how it supposed to work. check your fuses, dig arround on this site, there are alot of threads about this topic. Post any questions if you didnt find the answer on the site, make clear description of whether you can manualy lock door from inside or not etc.

[Kobe Diesel]

Have searched this forum, but no clear solution has been found.
Note...the doors do not lock manually, inside or out...only trunk locks and thats manually.

[Javier]

Fuses F30 and F31 under the back seat are crucial to central locking operation. As you have power windows, guess GM and RM are OK.

You shouldn't have your windows up when holding the key to closing request. Do you?

Javier

[Kalevera]

Interesting theories posted earlier. I've written on this...probably a year ago...but it's described in detail, and I have pictures around here on the subject. It applies to locks that cannot be PHYSICALLY moved. Chances are your car experienced the following.

In fact, I'd put money on it. You can paypal me $5 later

BMWs of this vintage use a brown ground and a black or red positive battery leads. Ignorant people, stupid tow truck drivers, and the CVS good samaritan guys have a hard time figuring out how to jump the battery -- after all, it's not a chevy.

When the polarity on the E32/E34 body electronics is reversed, every actuator in the car (trunk, fuel, all doors) spins, very rapidly, in reverse. The "submarine" style actuators found in your car use plastic gears. After a second of being subjected to such stress, the plastic components in the actuators melt. Typically, the two servos found in each unit get so hot that they'll fuse themselves to the actuator housing. This effectively freezes the actuator. Not a good thing if the car is locked. The actuators are not serviceable -- they'll have to be replaced. Most BMW and foreign specific junk yards are quite familiar with this one -- happens all the time, and it only takes one idiot and one second of incorrect power application.

The cylinders that do work on your car have probably either had the actuator disconnected, or the thing has been forced open. Usually the trunk can be manipulated. Doors will probably be frozen, no matter how much force is applied to the pin or the key in the cylinder.

best, whit

[Kobe Diesel]

When key is inserted driver/passenger/trunk, it turns cw/ccw with no restriction. But trunk lock works. My gas fill door is "lipped" for manual opening so I dont think it's tied into central locking, I could be wrong on that.
Ill search for the fuses under the seats.

[Kalevera]

So the pins actually move, but the doors simply don't lock?

All gas doors should manually open The lock rod extends through a small rubber grommet in the center left hand side of the opening, meeting a black plastic fitting on the fuel door (effectively locking it, but not very well).

best, whit

[Kobe Diesel]

No locking, no movement, no sounds, nada...At this moment, Im considering replacing all components as affordably as possible

[Kalevera]

Interesting...this is where I'm getting confused, though -- the whole "movement" bit....because it's still a mechanical...uh....mechanism. If the key can be turned and the pins are moving, something very weird is going on for the door not to lock.

Seems highly unlikely that all of the latches or handles would go bad. I still think the car's got frozen actuators, perhaps someone went in and disconnected them when they were quoted $400/door + $100 labor/door (or whatever they are new). Still doesn't explain why the pins or cylinders are moving. Doors should lock when they move -- it's mechanical Even with fried actuators, the RM can be heard -- clicking -- with the windows down....if all the other electrics check out.

Only thing to do is pull a door panel and have a look if the stuff Javier was talking about is good... Heck, I'm curious.

best, whit

[genphreak]

When key is inserted driver/passenger/trunk, it turns cw/ccw with no restriction. But trunk lock works. My gas fill door is "lipped" for manual opening so I dont think it's tied into central locking, I could be wrong on that.
Ill search for the fuses under the seats.

It doesn't sound like you've read the manual yet as suggested earlier. The locking on these cars is very smart and does not work the way you think. You really want to understand it, as well as the resetting procedure, emergency overide and so on. Search the forum properly (find the archives) and you will discover, but you really should start with the manual first.

btw; The fuel door is tied into the cetral locking on all of them. nick